Ken Wright Cellars is devoted to showcasing the inherent quality of selected vineyard sites. With a clarity and breadth that is unequaled by other varieties, we believe Pinot noir best expresses the character of these sites. Rather than stamping wine with a varietal trademark, Pinot noir is the ultimate vehicle for conveying the aroma, flavor and texture of the location in which it is grown. Ken Wright Cellars produces a single vineyard Pinot Noir from 13 different vineyard sites in the Northern Willamette Valley.
Ken Wright Cellars is devoted to showcasing the inherent quality of selected vineyard sites. With a clarity and breadth that is unequaled by other varieties, we believe Pinot noir best expresses the character of these sites. Rather than stamping wine with a varietal trademark, Pinot noir is the ultimate vehicle for conveying the aroma, flavor and texture of the location in which it is grown. Ken Wright Cellars produces a single vineyard Pinot Noir from 13 different vineyard sites in the Northern Willamette Valley.
Each of Ken Wright Cellars single vineyard Pinot noir, has its own label artwork designed by local artist, David Berkvam. Ken and Karen fell in love with David’s work while touring one of his shows in Portland. At the time, Ken and Karen were looking to upgrade from the current white and gold signature Pinot noir label to something that left a lasting impression on wine lovers. David certainly had the talent for creating a lasting impression on people with his unique beeswax based art. Ken and Karen wanted something that conveyed the hard work and perseverance it takes to create high quality Pinot noir in Oregon, focusing on the long and cold, wet days of winter pruning. From that thought, and relationship struck with David, the original Pinot Noir label was created. This original artwork now resides with Savoya vineyard. In 2009 Ken commissioned David to create new artwork for each single vineyard site. The original artwork, is done in 100% beeswax, and then painted. David worked closely with the Wright’s and vineyard owners to create a label that was unique for each site. To learn more about David and his work visit his website at www.DavidBerkvam.com
At Ken Wright Cellars we also have a special place in our hearts for the limited production of white wines, Chardonnay from Celilo Vineyard near White Salmon, Washington, a small block of Dijon 548 Chardonnay Clone planted at Savoya Vineyard in Yamhill-Carlton, and Pinot Blanc from Freedom Hill Vineyard.
Our white wine is barrel fermented and barrel aged in French oak barrels. The Pinot Blanc is in 100% neutral French oak barrels, while the Chardonnay receives about 18% new oak barrels depending upon the vintage. Throughout the barrel aging process both the Pinot Blanc and Chardonnay wine remains with the original yeast, creating a beautiful glycerin based mouth feel in our resulting wines.
The wine label on Ken’s white wine and Willamette Valley Pinot Noir is the original signature label that Ken created when he started Ken Wright Cellars in 1994. The font for this label was inspired by a document Ken found behind an old filing cabinet, while cleaning out his first winery space at the old electric company building in McMinnville, Oregon in 1986. He liked it so much he decided to incorporate it in to his labels. The font type is still a part of all of the new Ken Wright Cellars labels you see on current bottlings today. For those who have been following Ken since his start in Oregon, his original single vineyard labels have the white and gold label as well.
When to drink Ken Wright Cellars Pinot Noir:
Given perfect cellaring conditions: Constant 55-degree temperature, 70% humidity, no vibration and a dark environment.
Chart shows broad spans of drinkability: earlier in the range will exhibit fresh, vibrant fruit; for people who prefer a mature pinot – look toward the latter half of the time span.
October 26, 2020
Dear friends,
“It was the best of times, it was the worst of times, it was the age of wisdom, it was the age of foolishness, it was the epoch of belief, it was the epoch of incredulity, it was the season of Light, it was the season of Darkness, it was the spring of hope, it was the winter of despair”.
Charles Dickens, A Tale of Two Cities (1859)
The beginning words of a novel during my seventh grade that foretold what might be a long and boring read. Throughout these last number of months, it became more relevant and accurately descriptive.
The challenges to our business this year were significant. In calendar order they were Covid, the smallest crop since 1998 and the threat of smoke taint. The shuttering of restaurants nationally meant the loss of more than half of our accounts and locally resulted in the temporary closure of our tasting room. To compensate we focused on virtual tastings, free local delivery of wine (Evy and I spent several weekends motoring around the valley), enhancing our online presence and looking for new opportunities wherever they might be found. Our team has been very creative and resilient. My goal through it all was to keep our entire winery family together. Though we don’t know what the next hurdle might be, so far so good.
We also focused on keeping our restaurant community as healthy as possible. During the two-month closure we had lunch catered by our local restaurants every day of the work week. They are all still in business and we were happy to be a part of helping get them through.
The growing season began in early/mid-April with bud break and we had beautiful weather in those first weeks that had us progressing well into the first stages of flowering the second week of June. From June 5th or so and over the following 10 days the temperature dropped significantly and it rained steadily. This weather had a profound affect on our fertility. Each berry is its own flower and has both male and female parts (hermaphroditic). Because of this we do not require bees for pollination, but cold and wet conditions do result in a loss of fertility.
Once the weather improved and the plants finished flowering, we were able to canvas each site and evaluate our crop levels. It became immediately clear that we were looking at one of the lightest crops in the modern industry’s history. For the winery it is an economic challenge. Our farming costs per acre are essentially the same but there is much less fruit to show for it. Our farming costs, for every bottle produced, will be almost three times what we would expect in a normal year. Can we raise prices to make up for this loss? Not in today’s environment.
Is there a silver lining to this low crop? In fact, there is. Part of the reason for the low weights from the vineyard is that the berries were extremely small. The clusters this year never really filled in. The “looseness” of the berries on the cluster meant good air movement which played a huge role in preventing disease. Over the entire harvest we sorted less than a dozen clusters affected by rot of any kind. We didn’t have much but what we had was clean and beautiful. Of course, the small berries meant a higher percentage of skin to juice resulting in wines of intense color, aroma and flavor.
Now, onto the fires. Several things have happened this year that I have never seen before. It has been incredibly disappointing to see members of my industry cancelling contracts for fruit at the last minute without any attempt to negotiate a solution with the growers. Often these decisions were made based on a five-gallon bucket fermentation of unripe fruit. Most of these growers were uninsured and were left high and dry after a years’ worth of farming cost had already been spent. This is a first for our area. Wineries and growers are first and foremost partners. In a true partnership you find a way to keep your partner whole.
A number of wineries have already proclaimed that they are not producing a 2020 vintage. In some cases, statements are being made that the entire vintage is flawed, and they would not deign to make wine from it. Be assured that many wineries who did not respond well to Covid have inventories that are making the banks cringe. Having an excuse not to produce a vintage is quite convenient for them at this time. Also, there are wineries that gave up after reading articles (not from experience) that smoke taint could be more pronounced after a period of months. The levels of guaiacol, 4 methyl guaiacol and cresol in our vineyards harvested, other than our experiment, do not support this. In times past, no one would have thrown their fellow industry members under the bus to make an excuse for their own misfortune. Perhaps the combination of Covid, small crop and potential smoke taint was too much for some to bear.
To be sure, there were a few vineyards that were affected by the fires. Of the thirteen sites that we source, only one had detectable issues and it was minimal and isolated to one area of the vineyard. We were fortunate that our vineyards were located in areas that were so unaffected.
In fact, after harvesting all of our sites, we were interested in sourcing a truly smoke affected vineyard and did so purposefully to set up an experiment that would look at different protocols/treatments that might mitigate or fully eradicate the issue. It was a chance to learn.
We chose a vineyard that was near an active fire in the Chehalem Mountains that was without question affected by that fire. This was not a small trial. We picked 25 tons of fruit from the site. Everything in the experimental design was done in full sized commercial lots. Prior to picking we had a day and a half to read through the existing literature and research on efforts to reduce the effects of live fire smoke. One research piece out of Italy particularly caught our attention. In their research they showed a remarkable ability of ozone to remove the volatiles responsible for taint aromatics. We included ozone, low fermentation temperatures and early pressing in our experimental design.
As we were processing the non-treated fruit, we could detect an ashy quality coming from the filling fermenter. Once we began processing the ozone treated fruit that ashy quality completely disappeared. At this writing, the treated wine is now in barrel and shows not a hint of corruption. We are immensely encouraged. The scale of this experiment will allow us to bottle quite a bit of each treatment for future tastings for industry members.
I cannot say enough about the determination and grit of our vineyard and winery teams. Not a “chicken little” among them. Everyone remained super positive and realistic about what we needed to do to succeed despite the challenges. They are simply the best. Whether it is 2020 or 1859, in the end it is human resourcefulness and character that are real strengths.
For you dear friend the proof is of course in the pudding. We are extremely excited to present the wine of 2020 for you to taste on the weekends prior to and following Thanksgiving. Like 1998, the wine is dense and rich but will be in short supply.
October 28, 2019
Dear friends,
When we are young twenty-somethings entering the work world and trying to establish our path in life, we tend to be self-focused. It is the normal and, in most cases, correct thing to do at that point in your progression. Stopping to evaluate what drives you and what gives you happiness and fulfillment when you are at that age can set the direction of your energy and effort for years. If you are lucky, you are able to cultivate relationships with those who have great experience in the path you have chosen.
I have been one of those “lucky people”.
The mentors I have had are, and sadly most cases were (because we have lost them to the inevitable), the most experienced and high character people in the business of wine. I am grateful for their influence that showed me none of us will ever know it all and that the pursuit of knowledge is an eternal study.
With the passing of time we reframe our vision and what is important to us. We don’t stop perfecting our craft, but we begin to think about our community and what we can do to make that community healthier. We become the adults in our world that have the ability to give back and provide opportunity to those who, just like us when we were young, are at a crossroads in determining their next steps.
Twenty years ago, Karen and I provided funding to help establish the Chemeketa Community College wine program. That program has flourished and given opportunity to hundreds of local students who have decided to make the wine business their chosen goal. Ten years ago, we replicated that program at Yamhill Carlton High School. We created the first high school vineyard program in the United States that included a working vineyard on school property. Students physically perform vineyard practices and learn about the industry firsthand. Many of those students have found jobs in the wine business, which of course is the ultimate goal.
All of that is good, but what my lovely wife has done simultaneously has been, without question, more impactful in bringing connectivity and health to our region. Karen created a soccer club over a decade ago that now has over 300 kids from toddlers to eighth graders involved. They are running, kicking, talking to each other, sharing the ball, learning the game, and in the end becoming friends. Attending those games are the parents, sisters, brothers, aunts and uncles, grandmas and grandpas. It is the definition of community. I do not know how to express how proud I am of what Karen has accomplished except say good on her. Amazing.
2019 is a defining vintage. Though we had several weather systems come in early September, we now have incredibly beautiful wine in our house. Patience was key, as true ripeness only happens with mother nature’s blessing. Our 24 sorters removed everything harmful. Yes, we lost a significant volume of fruit, but with the effort of our sorting line we were able to “PERFECT” the fruit we received. In this competitive world quality is requisite.
Our 2019 wine is ridiculously dark in color and concentrated in flavor and aroma. The wine shows great purity. This is a great vintage for us that reminds me of 1991. That vintage, without question, was the best of the 90’s. Great balance, perfume and longevity. 2019 will be one of Oregon’s signature vintages.
After crisscrossing the country over the last several years, I heard from many somms and buyers that they wished we would produce a wine that I selected from the absolute best barrels in our house regardless of vineyard. Something super limited from barrels that spoke to me. I do taste every barrel every year when selecting barrels for our vineyard designates. There are always a few special barrels that stand out.
With that, we are debuting “Auric” from the 2018 vintage. The meaning of the word is “containing gold” or “the aura surrounding a living thing”. Wine is indeed a living thing.
Please join us on the 29th and 30th of November for our annual winery open house barrel tasting.
Best,
Ken
10.20.2018
Dear friends and lovers of Oregon Pinot noir,
Two years ago, I made my first sales trip to China. My expectation was that I would be explaining where Oregon was in this world and introducing all I met to Pinot noir from our region. To my surprise almost all I encountered not only knew where the Willamette Valley was… they pronounced it correctly. On many occasions I got two thumbs up as they said “great Pinot noir”. I was floored by the level of knowledge of the Chinese wine community. How many times has the story been repeated of how people in China would order first growth Bordeaux and mix it with 7up? Ordering the best available wine but not appreciating it. I saw nothing of the kind in my travels.
As I flew back to the states I kept thinking about how the name WILLAMETTE VALLEY has become such a significant worldwide asset to our industry.
This has happened through the incredible efforts of so many. Those who came before me, those who came at the time I did and those who have come since. We have been a passionate group. A group that placed the love of Pinot noir above all else. A group that sought to produce Pinot noir that made you melt.
Knowing that collegiality would lead to lessons learned we have been incredibly open, not only to each other but to the world of Pinot noir producers. It was Oregon that created the first international meeting of Pinot noir minds at the Steamboat Fishing Lodge on the North Umpqua River in 1979. It was Oregon that created the first international celebration of Pinot noir for the public and trade in 1987 at Linfield College. And it was Oregon that created the first “Pinot Camp” for national trade members of the US in 1999.
All of that sharing has led to a very rapid pace of understanding our place… how to farm our vineyards for the greatest quality and how to honor that quality by becoming supportive yet invisible in the winemaking process.
After my return from China I convened a meeting of several dozen people who have been influential in creating the AVA (American Viticultural Area) structure of Oregon as well as labeling laws. The reason I wished for this meeting was to let the group know of my concern that we may not be doing enough to protect the good name “Willamette Valley”. A number of producers, including myself, stopped using Willamette Valley on some or all of their labels once the sub AVA’s were approved in the mid 2000’s. Many were so excited about the successful sub AVA effort that the Willamette Valley was now in the rearview mirror. We have been giving away this significant asset that took decades to create.
Two initiatives have developed from this meeting. The first, conjunctive labeling, is to require that when a sub AVA name (I wrote the Yamhill-Carlton AVA as an example) is used for wine from within the Willamette Valley the text “Willamette Valley” must also appear somewhere on the bottle. It would not need to appear next to the sub AVA text. It could be anywhere as long as it was visible. No one in China knows where the Eola Amity Hills AVA is but they absolutely know where the Willamette Valley is. We need to continue to own this significant asset. We need to continue to put our stake in the ground of the Willamette Valley and own it.
The second initiative is what we are calling exclusive varietal content. In essence, this means that if a varietal is named on the label the wine must be 100% that varietal. This would apply only to Willamette Valley wine. Pinot noir and Chardonnay were the first two considered but there is an active committee looking at the inclusion of other varieties.
There are currently only two regions in the world that have this requirement. Albariño, produced in Rias Baixas of Spain, must be 100% varietal. All Alsatian wine must be 100% of the varietal named on the label. The Willamette Valley would be the third region in the world to have this standard and the first in the United States.
The current federal standard for minimum percentage of the named variety is 75%. In other words, one could add 25% of any other variety without naming it on the label. The State of Oregon standard, established by David Adelsheim in 1977, has a requirement of 90%.
To establish the 100% standard for Oregon would be the ultimate statement of authenticity. It would be complete truth in labeling. It is my hope that both of these initiatives are realized in this coming year and that Oregon once again plays a leading role in taking the quality of American wine forward.
Though I have been making wine professionally since 1978, first in Monterey, California and then here in Oregon with my first owned venture Panther Creek Cellars, 2018 marks the 25th vintage for the Ken Wright Cellars brand. We have come a long way since 1994 when it was just two of us, Dale on the road selling and me minding the store. We are now a staff of 22 which blows my mind. It has been great growth with amazing people that we have handpicked for their high character, creativity and passion for this business. We all hope that you will make us one of your stops over the Thanksgiving holiday so that we can thank you face to face for making this incredible journey possible.
2018 continues a string of very warm and very dry vintages. Our vines were very happy for the half inch drink of water they received mid-September. Rather than a setback in the pace of ripening this rain event got the vines’ motors running again. We saw all sites physiologically push to balanced maturity, which is what happens when Mother Nature provides the perfect scenario. Though we are down 20% in production of Pinot noir what we have in our house is deep, dreamy and gorgeous. Love is a wonderful thing.
Please join us on the 23rd & 24th of November between 11am and 5pm for our annual winery open house barrel tasting.
Best,
Ken
10.21.17
Fire and Flood
As I write this, in the midst of pressing, I exhale a bit and that mental break from the immediacy of caring for the fruit we have received allows the mind to wander a bit. For me, I can’t wander too far without thinking of the numerous natural disasters that have befallen the US this year. Between Houston, Florida, Puerto Rico and the Northern California fires it has been a serious year for weather driven disasters.
I was speaking with a friend, Miguel Garcia, from Puerto Rico yesterday who mentioned that 80% of the country was still without power. Even with amazing support from all US resources they are in for a long struggle just to get back to normal.
I’ve spoken to so many individuals from each of these affected areas. While there have been tragic losses of life, and loss of irreplaceable structures, there is a consistent theme from everyone that they will not only survive but rebuild in a way that is better, stronger… and smarter. The power of the human spirit is incalculable.
Meanwhile… we in the Willamette Valley have enjoyed stunning Autumn weather. Protected from the west by the Coast Range and from the east by the Cascades we are, by contrast to so many other regions, nestled safely in this beautiful place. Make no mistake though. Our threats are those of a longer-term nature but perhaps ultimately more devastating than the fires or the flood. The entire Cascade chain is composed of live volcanoes. Mount Rainier, Mount Hood, Mount Jefferson and Mount Washington are all capable of blowing up at any time. St. Helens showed them the way just a few years ago.
The Cascades exist because they are the point at which the Juan de Fuca plate, which subducts under our coastline, emerges violently above ground once again. Just saying hi. Let’s call that “point of contention number one”. The location where the marine-based Juan de Fuca plate subducts under the continental plate, many miles west into the Pacific from any Oregon beach you stand on, is “point of contention number two”. At this location you have the meeting of two enormous physical masses. Everything has been hunky dory for as long as there have been written records or that any human being can remember but our best geologists believe that there have been consistent violent slips between the two plates. The interval between these violent slips is debatable and unsure but what all believe is that when the “slip” (think of a sudden fall of a 1000-mile-plus coastline) does happen it will cause a massive tsunami and earthquakes the likes of which we have never seen.
The last several years were very warm. 2017 was a throwback to the classic vintages we have experienced over 30 plus years. Bud break (first green tissue) happened at the time we normally expect. Bloom (flowering of each individual grape) was also when we normally expect this phenomenon, mid-June.
As those who live in Oregon know, we experienced one of the longest dry periods in our history through July and August. No precipitation for 56 days. Stupid dry.
When we first checked sugar levels they were abnormally high. The sugar level was not in sync with the physiological ripeness of the fruit. Seeds were green, and the fruit was pulpy.
We thankfully received over an inch of rain mid-September which lowered the sugar and brought it in line with the natural acid of the fruit. From that point forward the fruit matured with great balance. This is a year that reminds me of 1988, which aged so effortlessly (and is still amazing), though this year has more power and concentration.
Please join us on the 24th and 25th of November for our annual winery open house barrel tasting.
Best,
Ken
November 1, 2016
Dear Friends,
As I sit down to pen my traditional harvest letter I am observing another post-harvest tradition as well. My post-harvest cold. Tissues are on the left, decongestants on the right. A glass of water for hydration rather than an inspirational glass of Oregon Pinot noir.
The power of adrenaline and the human will never fail to amaze me. The immediacy, necessity, and energy of harvest simply don’t allow the germs of this world to gain a foothold in this human body. Over nearly four decades of harvests my only days missed were in my first vintage. I was in California at the time. The winery received a very late shipment of Zinfandel that had been offered at a ridiculously low price. Naïve as I was, I didn’t suspect anything amiss. While we processed the fruit I, of course, was sampling (eating) the fruit. Within a few hours I became wildly sick and by the morning was in a fetal position considering that a will should be written. It was of course only a frame of mind as I had no worldly possessions to pass on other than an old Rambler auto that only started when it felt like it. No joke, a Rambler.
Three days later and finally coherent, I was told that the fruit had been sprayed heavily and late with a rot spray. I had been chemically poisoned to what felt like an inch of my life. A lesson very well learned. Might explain some of my behavior to this day. Angela thinks so.
In 31 Oregon vintages I have never seen anything like this kind of irresponsible farming practice. From the beginning of the modern wine industry in Oregon the farming intent has been to be vigilant in protecting the health of our plants but to never go nuclear. Better to lose a percentage of crop than to use chemistry that may be unhealthful. Back then, organic, biodynamic, sustainable or nutrition-based standards did not exist. It was simply that the ethos of our industry would not have it any other way. We are proud to be part of the Oregon viticultural family that continues to carry that flag.
Thinking of Angela, it dawned on me a few days past how remarkable the tenure is of our staff. I was my only employee for the first five years. As difficult as I was, I survived myself. My first hire was the lovely and talented Dale West who took over sales in Oregon. It was just he and I for the next six years. Then the business took off. Today, we have a full-time staff of 16. Our average length of tenure is 14 years. Our combined years of industry experience is 210 years. When I think back to the beginning of this business, the many hurdles that were barely cleared, I know that to have this close-knit family is our greatest achievement. So lucky and so blessed.
The 2016 vintage was lucky as well. We had very warm temperatures in the early spring which promoted a very early start to the season. This early start exposed us to quite a long period of frost “exposure”, but thankfully it never happened. All of the critical times of vine development continued to be early but our summer months were in fact only mildly warm, which led to a beautifully long growing season. We finished receiving fruit under stupidly beautiful blue skies, thinking then that they would continue for weeks into a pleasant Indian summer. Within a few days all hell broke loose. Tornadoes on the coast. Sixty-mile-per-hour winds. Not a problem. We were in the barn and safe from Mother Nature’s rage. Lucky.
The crop level of 2016 was quite low. We averaged just above two tons per acre. This is mostly due to the very small berry size of the vintage. Small berries give us greater intensity of color, aroma and texture. It is a magnificent vintage that combines density with balance and immediate appeal. We are in love.
Please join us November 25th and 26th at Ken Wright Cellars Winery, from 10am to 4pm, for our annual barrel tasting. We very much look forward to seeing you.
Best,
Ken
October 31st, 2015
Dear Friends,
We have been blessed with receiving quite fortunate press over the last year. The cover of Wine Spectator last May, with the accompanying in-depth article by Harvey Steiman, brought well-deserved international attention to Oregon. Just last week, I had the honor of speaking at the New York Wine Experience (Wine Spectator’s major event of the year) as one of their five “Wine Stars.” The other speakers were Bill Harlan of California, Eric de Rothschild of France, Jean Engelbrecht of South Africa and Angelo and Gaia Gaja of Italy. Heady company indeed.
I am writing this missive on All Hallows’ Eve, after judging a local pumpkin carving contest, and it brings to mind the author Stephen King. He referred to his incredibly loyal following as his “constant readers.” No matter his obvious popularity, he always gave credit to any success he had obtained to those who read his books, not the critics. We at Ken Wright Cellars feel exactly the same way. We credit any success we have had to all of you who have supported our efforts over so many years. We cannot thank you enough. You have allowed us to ply the trade we love, farming outstanding vineyards and being respectful of the inherent quality of the fruit we receive. You have been our “Constant Readers.”
In the spring of 1987, a lean white-haired gentleman pulled up in the driveway of my modest $250-per-month building in McMinnville, which served as my winery. At the time, he was driving a perfect early-sixties Ford pickup with several 50-gallon barrels in the bed. He approached me and related that he and his wife had a property in the coastal hills which had a one-acre garden that was their main source of food. Their well had gone dry and the garden would fail without water. I was happy to help. However, due to renovation of the building, my only available water was in the crawl space below. I snuck underneath the structure, connected a water hose and gave him the spouting end of the hose. He thanked me profusely. I had several guests at the time and by the end of my visit with them, he was gone, water turned off and the hose neatly curled.
Eight years later, in 1995, when I had relocated to Carlton, there was a knock on the winery door. I opened it and a white-haired gentleman said, “You may not remember me but you saved my garden years ago. I’m retired now but wish to be of service to you. How can I help?” This was my second introduction to Charles K. Trewhella, “Father T.”
Since that moment, Father T has worked every day of harvest, with the exception of Sundays and the year his dear wife Alice passed, giving enormous amounts of his time to our winery. He has been my ideal monitor on our sorting line. Nothing passes Father T; neither leaves, bugs, rot nor underripe fruit get beyond him. He is our quality control manager at the highest level. He has been our last line of defense for the last 20 years, as well as a dear friend in times both good and difficult.
This year, we’ve created a special Father T cartoon for the back of our harvest T-shirt in honor of his years of volunteerism. Next to Father T, you see his wife Alice’s watch taped to the wall. He brings the watch each day to harvest to help him manage the crew’s breaks throughout the day.
Another valued and long-term relationship began in 1990 with Jack and Kathleen Carter. For those with some longevity, you may remember that 1990 was a seminal year—not only for Oregon, but also for Germany, Champagne, Burgundy, Italy and so many other wine regions of the world. Perhaps the best vintage worldwide ever. It was our first year of creating vineyard-designated Pinot noir, which at the time included Carter and Canary Hill Vineyard.
In the beginning, our relationship with the Carters was a simple acreage contract. By the end of the 90’s, we began farming the vineyard. For 25 years, we have loved this site and have promoted it as if it were our own. Vineyard managers Mark and Seth both held their weddings on the property.
This last year, Kathleen and Jack approached us about purchasing their vineyard. They could have put the property on the open market and very possibly we may not have been competitive. But Kathleen and Jack cared more about our relationship, cared more about our effort to promote what they had created and cultivated. Instead, they wished to find a way for us to acquire the site. Kathleen and Jack Carter epitomize what Oregon is all about. Relationships matter. Friendships matter.
Photo of Jack and Kathleen Carter
2015 was the warmest year in Oregon’s recorded history; records have been kept throughout the valley since 1924. This level of heat was initially a concern for us, hoping that we would not see the vines struggling at the end of the season from drought-induced stress. In fact, what we saw at the season’s end were vines with a lush and vibrant canopy. The nutrition-based farming that we have practiced for so many years really showed its value at the end of the growing season. Rather than achieving high sugar levels through water-stressed dehydration, the vines were still fully physiologically active. There was very little senescence (yellowing of the leaves) at harvest. This is a testament to the hard work and focus of our vineyard team: Mark, Seth and Taylor.
The wines of 2015 are lush, forward and immediately rewarding. We hope you can join us to taste this incredible vintage out of barrel on November 27th and 28th at Ken Wright Cellars Winery, from 10am to 4pm.
Best,
Ken
November 4, 2014
Dear Friends,
We produced the #1 wine on the planet per Wine Enthusiast this year, but please read on…
As those who live here know, we experienced one of the warmest, driest and most beautiful years of weather in memory. It started early in the spring which led to a very early bud-break. Unlike many other years in Oregon, June was completely summerlike which gave us early flowering as well.
The concern we have in a very warm year is that the plant (Pinot noir) might race to ripeness and not have enough hang time required for the development of detail in aroma, flavor and texture. Pinot noir is the earliest ripening red wine variety and this normally necessitates weather conditions that prevent accelerated development.
The consistently warm days, as stunning as they were for us as human beings to experience, would have propelled the fruit forward at a rate of development that would have given us overly sugared and simple qualities in the resulting wine save one very significant fact. We had a bountiful crop.
As those who live here also know, we had a very cold spell this last winter. The low temperature in this region was 9° Fahrenheit. We were very concerned about damage to the dormant buds. All European varieties are susceptible to bud death when temperatures are in the single digits. After the cold event we checked on the health of the buds by cutting through them horizontally with a knife. Any buds damaged would show that they were destroyed by the cold by turning black. Each bud is in fact three buds: a primary, secondary and tertiary (3rd bud). When we cut through the buds we saw no issues. Hallelujah. This deep cold we incurred with no ill effects is an explanation for the natural high crop level we had.
There have been many studies that show the colder the temperature that fruit-producing plants are subjected to, if the buds are not damaged, the more fruitful the plant will be. The deep cold certainly played a role in the plants setting a larger crop. This effect was not limited to grape vines. We saw large crops of apples, pears, apricots and plums as well. In a year that we were worried about abnormally quick development the increased crop was our friend. The work required of the vine to ripen this increased crop level put the brakes on the plants. Our year was extended by leaving the natural level of fruit and increasing the hang time.
No one more than we believe in thinning in years where it is appropriate. We began utilizing acreage contracts in 1987. These contracts gave us control over crop level and addressed the need to reduce crop in a cooler year. This ensured that in a year of limited heat we would still harvest fully ripe fruit. This year the opposite approach was needed. Proof once more that you can’t recipe the farming of wine grapes.
2014 provided an abundance of perfectly ripe Pinot noir. The wine exhibits great depth of color, intense and complex aroma and flavor. The textural profile is lush and balanced. Very beautiful… very fun. We look forward to sharing this amazing vintage with you.
The Wine Enthusiast magazine has given significant recognition to our winery this year. We have been nominated as one of five wineries for “American Winery of the Year.” In their review of the top 100 wines of the world our bottling of 2012 Tanager was rated 33rd. Our bottling of the 2012 Abbott Claim is their number one rated wine on the planet. We appreciate the recognition and that it puts Oregon on the world stage.
Best,
Ken
My friends,
I think often about the differences in approach to our craft that exist in the myriad of wine regions around the world. One subject that rises to the top of thought quite often is the separation of farming vines and making wine. Church and state.
My take is that the greater that divide may be the less riveting are the resulting wines. When the winemaker has less control over the management of the sourced vineyards the quality is affected. It is not a myth that the ability to produce a wine of character is based on having fruit that begs to be great wine. No winemaker is talented enough to change that paradigm.
Too often, I think, in the US, this separation of the winemaker from the vineyard is the reality. Students attending Davis, Fresno, Oregon State and other learning institutions tend to choose one path or the other. The result can be that the vineyard is operating with a plan that the winemaker is not in control of. The winemaker receives fruit at harvest that was farmed without his or her influence. They then deal with the cards played and do their best. Not the best model for success.
I am loathe to ever use French words when English suffices but they do have a word we do not have in our language to describe a person who is involved in both the vineyard and winery. That word would be “vigneron”.
Our small cohesive group of Pinot noir producers in the Willamette Valley would most often fit into the integrated model where experience and knowledge exist both in the vineyard and the winery. You should be emboldened that most are using a holistic approach that governs practices on the farm and in the cellar. It’s a good thing. Our success as a young producing region has been to a great degree based on this.
The Willamette Valley is a place where Pinot noir inherently wants to be great. As farmers of vines it has been our goal to learn the correct approach for each site that ensures that greatness is realized. When a great site is properly farmed, the resulting wine will have more depth of flavor, aroma and texture.
2013 had one of the earliest starts that I can recall. Development during the spring was boosted by a 10-day stretch of weather between May 2nd and May 11th that had an average high temperature of 78.2°F. A real example of our incredible early development was borne out by a single vine in Abbott Claim Vineyard. Mark Gould has been tracking the shoot growth by date for this vine for a number of years. On May 18th of 2011, the shoot growth (measured on a piece of vertical lath) was 4 inches. In 2012, the exact same shoot position on the same vine, on the same date, was 12 inches. In 2013, the exact same shoot position on the same vine, on the same date, was 22 inches. Wow. We were way ahead in development compared to a normal growing season and we remained ahead for the remainder of the year.
Come September, the weather became less stable and we experienced several systems that came through the region. Fortunately, we have the ability to remove rainfall so the diluting effects of any precipitation were easily corrected. Mother Nature did not rain on our parade.
It was key as well that the great work performed by vineyard managers Mark, Seth and Taylor through the entire growing season kept our fruit healthy and clean. They provided the needed raw material required to create compelling wine. Our top-notch team in the cellar, with volunteers led by Father “T”, protected the fruit and fermentations with exceeding care. We were completely in sync as a team, protecting the integrity of our sites. God I hate to say it but we were “vigneron”.
Please join us for a preview of the 2013 vintage November 29th and 30th from 10 to 4 each day. Thank you all for supporting our efforts and allowing us to continue doing what we love.
Best,
Ken
Dear friends,
After thirty-five years of winemaking experience in Oregon and California, I can count the truly great years on three fingers: 1979 in California’s Monterey County, 1990 in the Willamette Valley and, yes, 2012 in the Willamette Valley as well.
We have an amazing team with terrific depth of experience that gives us the ability to produce wine that delivers a very pleasurable bottle from the challenging vintages. But there are years when we simply sit in awe as Mother Nature hands us remarkable fruit that only requires that we respect the gift we have received. 2012 is such a year.
The intensity of color, aroma and flavor is inspiring. The onus has been on us to protect those qualities at all costs. We know how special this vintage is and that this kind of opportunity is rare. My promise to you is that we have cared for the fruit from each of our sites as if this was the last great vintage we would experience. I do of course hope this is not true as I expect several decades more of active winemaking. But you never know. I may be dragged out of the winery by my Red Wing boots at eighty without seeing another year like this.
The booming propane cannons that are used to scare off the migratory starlings and cedar waxwings can make the valley sound like a war zone. It is exasperating for everyone when a grower forgets to turn them off at nightfall and it happens several times every year. In our hope to be a better neighbor we have turned to falcons for control of predacious birds. It is nothing short of amazing to see flocks of birds vanish when the falcons are in the air. Unlike propane cannons, which are ineffective after a few days, the falcons remain a very real threat. Sister-in-law Susi Crum has jumped into falconry training with both feet and captured a juvenile kestrel early this fall. In a few years, after quite a bit more training, she will be able to work with full-size falcons. Go Susi!
Another current topic that has my full attention is the recent creation of a viticulture program at Yamhill-Carlton High School. With the support of the Yamhill Carlton Winegrowers Association, Chemeketa College, the FFA program at YC High School, the principal of the high school and the Yamhill Carlton school board, we were successful this year in establishing a curriculum for the students that gives college credits toward a grape-growing degree. It was time for our industry, now mature, to step up and support the young people in our community that wish to pursue a path in agriculture that has been previously unavailable. This program is now real and being taught as of this fall. It will include the planting of a “land lab”, beginning with one acre of Pinot noir on school property which will provide a hands-on experience that is rare for a high school student. This is the first program of its type in Oregon, and to my knowledge, the country.
We are offering two new vineyards this year. Bryce Vineyard, planted in the Ribbon Ridge AVA in 1999 by Bryce and Marcia Bagnall, is an exceptional site. We were honored that after Bryce’s passing Marcia approached us about a long-term relationship with the vineyard. We established a fifteen-year lease and our team now farms Bryce Vineyard. This is the first Ribbon Ridge AVA wine we have produced in many years. We sourced fruit from Beaux Frères from ’91 to ’93, then Mike Etzel realized there simply was not enough profit in growing grapes alone, turned his pig barn into a very nice wine facility and kept his fruit in-house. We are pleased that Marcia Bagnall asked us to take over her special five-acre site and we are very excited to be working with Ribbon Ridge fruit again.
Sister Susi and her bird-loving husband Art (a Delta pilot) purchased property near our home vineyard Savoya several years ago. We were enthusiastic about the potential of the site and entered into a thirty-year lease (yikes) to develop the best part of the land (6.5 acres) for vineyard. They have coined the vineyard Tanager, named after the colorful Western Tanager that inhabits our area for a number of weeks in the spring.
We have heard from so many that you would like to have the opportunity to purchase every vineyard that we offer without the need to purchase a half case of each. Beginning this year you have the option to do exactly that. The “Vineyard Sampler” is two full cases (24 bottles) which will include two bottles of each vineyard site that we produce. A great opportunity for horizontal tastings.
We will be open for tasting of this great vintage on the 23rd and 24th of November from 10 am to 4 pm. We hope to see you here.
Our heartfelt thanks for your continued support of our endeavors,
Best,
Ken
Dear friends,
I received a wonderful email last week from Jack and Kathleen Carter. Their sentiment perfectly expresses how I feel about the capabilities of everyone on our staff. “Ken, we want to say once again what a great vineyard management team you have. Mark, Seth and Taylor ran the harvest at Carter Vineyard with thoroughness, efficiency and grace. They manage to get everything done they need to do and make it possible for the picking crew to work as fast as they can and feel good about their work. Thanks for having such a professional and personable crew.”
Our vineyard team certainly deserves this praise but our winery team and volunteers performed at an incredibly high level as well. In a year that may have challenged an unfocused approach in the vineyard or winery, we excelled at all levels. The wonderful qualities we are seeing in the new wines are the direct result of so many passionate and professional people that Karen and I are so fortunate to have in our company and as friends.
A significant development occurred for us this year with Guadalupe Vineyard. After 20 years of investing in “brand” Guadalupe we were fortunate to have Kathleen Boeve and Jim Stonebridge ask us if we had interest in leasing the entire site. We are grateful to have this opportunity and to know that Guadalupe will be a part of our portfolio for decades to come.
Now that we have brought in our last vineyard we can exhale a bit and continue the fun of pressing and enjoying those wonderful primary aromas that fill the cellar from the press pan. So far, with five vineyards pressed and barreled, we could not be happier with the results. The aromatic profiles tend to be dominated by red and blue fruits, though Guadalupe was all about chocolate and tobacco. There is an attractive sappy sweetness that pleasantly coats the palate. The flavors are complex, delineated and lifted by the lovely, balanced acidity. Yummm……..
After living in the dark ages technologically we now, finally, have an online shopping cart on our website. We also have an updated Facebook fan page which will include occasional blogs from me discussing whatever is current and important to us (check out the latest blog regarding our history with Guadalupe!). Our KWC/TE Wine Club continues to grow dramatically. Perks include free tastings, significant discounts on purchases and a really fun gathering in the spring that will include time in the vineyard and a delicious catered lunch. You can sign up online or by contacting Carrie@tyrusevanwine.com. Shipments will include both Ken Wright Cellars and Tyrus Evan selections and will often include a wine that is exclusive to the club.
We will be open for tasting on the Friday and Saturday following Thanksgiving, November 25th and 26th, from 10am to 4pm.
Best wishes from all of us for a safe and enjoyable holiday season.
Ken
Dear friends,
As I sat down to write this letter I asked myself, “how many of these missals have I penned over the years?”. Hmmm….1986 to 2010. That makes for a very nice round number of 25. So hard to believe these many years have passed. I hope, like me, that you feel much younger than the reality of your years.
When I turned 40 my loving wife Karen bought a Fender Stratocaster for me after hearing for so long that my ultimate dream was to play that thing like Mark Knopfler of Dire Straits. My friend John Thomas, the ultimate hermit winemaker, bought an original Marshall Tube amp to complete the deal (dare).
Well, at fifty-six I have yet to pick up that precious instrument. It sits in our guest bedroom closet….haunting me. To her credit, my lovely wife has been golden about the fact that I have not, as yet, made good on living my dream. A couple of comments, over such a long time, in front of thousands of listeners is only fair.
Over so many years the reality of my true love is clear. I love making wine. I love tending vines. I love spreading the good word about Oregon Pinot noir and that its place is at the very top of excellence on this planet.
My good friend Chris Olson moves the equipment of all the major musical acts around this country. As an example, he has provided the trucking for the Superbowl halftime performances for more than the last ten years. When Dire Straits came to Portland to play at the Schnitz two years ago he invited Karen and I to join him. Before the show, and because we knew Chris, we were invited to a private gathering with the band. Ten of us waited in a very small room for a “meet and greet.” The band came out, put cardboard boxes on the floor and began to play four incredible “Hawaiian” songs for us acoustically. Knocked us out. After the last crazy beautiful song they stood and asked us all to come forward to say hello. As you might expect I was more than a little excited to meet my “musical hero”. With a bottle of our Pinot in hand I greeted Mark and handed him my offering. He looked me in the eyes and said “Wow, Oregon Pinot noir, it’s the best.” Do I love him more? You bet. I’m hoping that will be my fix that allows me to get on with what I do best.
Our volunteers for harvest were, as usual, incredibly good at removing all material from the sorting belt that they would not accept. Led by Father “T”, everything that you would not willingly eat was removed post haste. After losing Alice, his wife of 60 years, last year, Father “T” was a welcome addition to our posse again. We love him for what he does for us.
What a weather year this was! We had a very cool and wet spring, followed by an early wet June that saw our vineyard manager Seth’s’ wife Kay lose her car to flooding on the John Day River when it rose ten feet in one day! Totaled.
The birds were voracious. In all of my years I have never seen anything like this. Our belief is that their natural fruit sources were unavailable (Did you notice that the blackberries this year rotted before they were ripe?) leaving grapes as the only offering on the menu. Most of our sites came in with reasonable crop levels though Canary Hill had but one ton per acre. Over all we are down almost 30 percent versus last year. Yikes! A number of our sites, particularly Canary Hill and Shea, will be in very short supply this year.
As we press off the fruit of this year we are happily stunned at the intensity of color and depth of aroma and flavor that we are seeing. Brilliant laser-like cherry aromas are the dominant theme. Violets, cola, coffee and licorice add further dimension to the aromatic profiles. It is a great testimony to the efforts of Mark, Seth and Taylor (our vineyard management team) that we could succeed like this with all the hurdles that Mother Nature provided. We had the benefit of over 110 days of hang-time which also played a role in aroma and flavor development. We are again grateful for the effort of our volunteers whose detailed sorting ensured that the value of a years worth of effort by all in our company was protected. 2010 is proving to be a small but terrific vintage.
NEW LABELS! After years of talking about creating individual labels for each of our vineyard sites we have finally made it happen. David Berkvam, who created our existing label artwork, produced nine more original wax carvings that depict various practices in the vineyard and winery. We will have the original works on display over the holiday weekend. For a sneak peek you can view the labels online at www.kenwrightcellars.com.
We will be open the Friday and Saturday after Thanksgiving, November 26th and 27th, from 10a-4p.
Thank you for supporting us for so many years and believing that we will produce wine for you that makes you stand up and cheer. Ken
October 29, 2009
Dear Friends,
As expected, we learned a new lesson this year as we do every year. Pollination in the vineyard was at an all time high. Every single berry is its own flower and, unlike many fruits, grapes are hermaphroditic. They have both male and female parts and so do not need the help of bees to pollinate. Great weather during spring flowering left us with not only very large berries, but fertility was at a level we have never seen in our twenty-four vintages in Oregon.
Our concern was that our skin to juice ratio would be reduced, resulting in less color, flavor and aroma. This is important since all of these properties reside in the skin tissue. Three weeks before our first harvest of fruit we had a wet weekend that gave us an inch of rain. Gads! The possibility of further dilution was very real. Instead, that rain event was followed by several days with 90 degree temperatures and the berries suddenly and prematurely shriveled, well before being physiologically ripe.
Now our concern was that we would have overly ripe flavors of prune and such when the fruit was ready for harvest. What we have learned is that physiology (mechanisms that create real ripeness) should not be mistaken for morphology (the physical look of the grape). Though quite a few of the clusters received had desiccated berries we have seen absolutely no qualities that suggest overly mature aromas or flavors. No prune or raisinlike character at all. Rather, we are seeing thrilling fresh fruit aromas as we press off each batch of fruit. The fragrance of these wines is powerful and high toned. This vintage has given us a lesson that what you see is not necessarily what you should expect. Thank you Mother Nature for a wonderful and free correction.
I can never say enough about our staff and volunteers. Everyone in the company has worked without a day off for the last two months, diligently carrying out each task with great attention to detail. Our volunteers were there in numbers at every point when we needed them most. Together, through our combined efforts, we made a difference and elevated the quality of the wine. We are very proud of the 2009 vintage and are anxious to show you the results.
Please join us on the 27th and 28th of November, the two days following Thanksgiving, from 10 to 4 each day when we will thief wine for you from the barrels of the latest vintage.
We thank all of you for supporting our efforts over so many years. You have been the lifeblood of our business and have allowed us to pursue the craft we love.
Ken
October 29, 2008
Dear Friends,
Over time, I‘ve come to appreciate that farming is a living daily journal. Each year brings a different set of challenges. Recognizing and overcoming those challenges becomes the fabric for our memory of that time and place. My recollections of 1992 (We harvested Beaux Freres in August!), 2001 (sun damage from a heat spike), or 1986 (my first vintage in Oregon) are all still vivid.
2008 will be no exception. This last winter was one of the coldest on record. Are we experiencing global warming or the coming of the next ice age? The winter conditions extended well into the spring months. We had a significant snowfall in northern Oregon on March 27th. This was the latest recorded snowfall for most of the valley in our short history. As late as the 10th of May, we were experiencing low temperatures at or near freezing.
The cold conditions delayed bud break, the first push of green tissue, to be three weeks later than usual. This delay would prove to be a blessing as we escaped a potentially severe frost. We were behind, but we were safe.
As we moved into late June the weather was mild and clear, ideal for our flowering and set (fertility). Other than a few heat spikes temperatures remained lower than normal through the remainder of the growing season. Unlike 2003, which also began late, we had not gained much ground by September.
Our hopes for an Indian summer to reverse our late start have come true. At this point of writing, we have had weeks of sunny days with crisp mornings and warm as toast late afternoons. All of the fruit is in house, rich with color, aroma, and flavor. The balance of sugar level to acidity may be the best we have seen since the early nineties. The hallmark of this vintage will be Pinot noir that is fully ripe, intense and long lived.
Last December we lost a good friend and mentor, Dick Daniel. Dick with his wife Nancy founded Canary Hill Vineyard in 1983. Our association and friendship began with our first contract for their fruit in 1987. Dick and Nancy personally performed most of the work in the vineyard with great care and attention to detail. Dick also performed the management of Carter Vineyard and was responsible for our very fortunate introduction to Jack and Kathleen Carter.
From the beginning, it was evident that Canary Hill was a special site. In fact, it was a barrel of that first vintage, which we showed at an open house, that caused a couple to ask us if they could buy the wine on futures, then the couple behind them, and the next.
In 1996 we entered into a lease of the vineyard with responsibility for the management. I did my best to keep up, but I know that watching me wedge the hedger blades into the line posts made Dick wince. Good man and teacher that he Dick Daniel was, he would simply point to a solid oak tree on the edge of the property. I would drive over to the tree, and he would calmly chain the hedger in such a way that we undid my mangling of the hedger frame. It happened more than once. Each time he had the same reaction, no screaming, just a look that said I know you are doing your best, but this machine won’t be long for the world if you do not get it together.
In 1997 Mark Gould left the glamorous world of world class cooking to get his fingers dirty. I think found his true calling. Mark took over management of Canary Hill for us and under Dick’s guidance, flourished. Together, we have taken the vineyard to a very high level of performance and expression.
Due to Dick’s quiet demeanor, few in our industry are aware of his pivotal role in the creation of the LIVE certification program. At our last annual industry conference, The Oregon Wine Symposium, Nancy accepted a lifetime achievement award for Dick which was more than well deserved.
We miss his constant steadfastness to quality, his questioning nature of how to improve the breed and perhaps most of all his wonderful, sly sense of humor. It is people like Dick that have made Oregon a special place to practice the craft of making world class wine.
You may recall that Karen was in Vietnam at this time last year to complete the adoption of our second daughter Evy (yes Jim Doran, still rhymes with Chevy). All went well and the contingent arrived tired but safe and sound back on US soil. It turned out that we were very fortunate that Karen traveled when she did as adoption from Vietnam was suspended shortly after her trip. We feel unbelievably lucky.
To show you the exciting wine of the 2008 vintage from barrel, we will be open on Friday and Saturday the 28th and 29th of November, from 10a to 4p. Thanks to all of you for supporting us through these many years. You allow us to continue our effort to produce wine that brings all of us a simple pleasure in life.
Thank you for the opportunity.
All the Best,
Ken
13 November 2007
Dear Friends:
As we prepare our Thanksgiving letter, I enjoy being one of the crew that applies the mailing labels. If the letter you’ve received has a label that is wrinkled or slightly off level, blame me as my eye-hand coordination leaves something to be desired. But I enjoy doing this because as I recognize names of those who have supported us through so many years and allowed us to continue doing what we love, it brings back a rush of memories that span twenty-two vintages and a lot of life.
2007 is the vintage we have been waiting for. Over the last 22 years, we have made vast advances in the way we farm our vineyards. Beginning with acreage contacts in the mid-80’s that allowed us to control crop level, the industry as a whole began a new era of quality. We followed with vineyard trials that began in 1995 and extended over nine years, which showed that early thinning of the immature clusters as soon as a few days following set hastened the onset of true physiological ripeness. This work belied the industry lore that claimed early thinning would result in bloating of the fruit (dilution).
Shoot positioning, which guaranteed that all available leaf surface was photosynthetically active, turbo-powered our vines in their ability to bring the fruit to true ripeness far ahead of past vintages. Our understanding of how we need to feed the microbiological population at the root zone to enable the uptake of key minerals from the mother rock has shown immense benefits as well. Would these and the many other techniques we now employ make a difference in a difficult year?
There is no escaping that we had a wet and challenging Harvest in 2007. None of the sites we work with showed maturity before the pattern of rainfall began. It made no sense to harvest fruit that would have no chance of creating wine of substance. So we waited. And waited. We knew that waiting would eventually mean a percentage of disease. We knew that waiting would result in dilution of character from rainfall. Not a problem.
Our sorting line, led by Father ‘T’ for the last fourteen years, pored over the fruit at a snail’s pace, ensuring that we only accepted clean and healthy clusters. Peg and Jerry Fenton, who we have known since 1987, continually stopped the line to remove stinkbugs and all other creatures that should never see their way to a fermenter. Our family of volunteers is our most impressive résumé – please see the list of their names at the end of this letter. All of these dedicated volunteers made their mark on this vintage by removing anything that you or I would find untrustworthy. They were merciless and their work allowed us to keep only clean, fully ripe fruit. Our tools in the winery gave us the ability to remove the diluting effects of rainfall, and deliver the best of what Mother Nature and a year’s worth of work could produce.
As the fermentations reached their end and pressing began, we were anxious to see the results of our work. Though we fully expected that our efforts would result in very good wine, what poured from the press to the drain pan was, in a word, amazing. One lot after another showed deep and expansive aromatic profiles, rich flavors, lush textures, and dense colors. We were, and continue to be, blown away by the quality. These are not wines that are very good for a difficult vintage – these are some of the best wines we have had the pleasure of producing, period.
The cool weather kept disease from becoming a major issue. The same cool weather, which prolonged the season and extended our “hang time” well past the traditional 100 days, certainly played a role in giving us this happy ending. What we do know is that the year-long work of Mark and Cody in the vineyard gave us the opportunity to work with fully-flavored fruit. We also know that the cellar staff of Alberto, Tim, Taylor and our Kiwi intern Jannine worked tirelessly and selflessly to make sure that what was needed to be done got done, every day. Brooke and Carol managed to run our office while simultaneously sorting fruit; Katie and Ivory joined in to help as their afterschool schedules allowed. Asa dropped his instate sales duties to play grape truck driver for several weeks, and Seth actually came back from a six-month sabbatical in Hawaii to help us in the final push in the vineyard. Donna, Carrie, Kori and Meridith joined in sorting while Dale held court at The Depot. In short, it was all hands on deck this Harvest – and all hands with the single purpose of supporting the perfecting of fruit we received.
Each weekday during Harvest as I drove my daughter Josie to school, we talked about the weather and how it was affecting our approach to picking decisions. The conversation often turned to the issue of whether is was smarter to take down (harvest) a vineyard that was close to being ready, or wait through the forecasted rain. To wait meant crop would be lost, and that the mechanics of getting fruit out of the vineyards would be more difficult and sorting in the winery would be far more tedious. “Wait ‘til the grapes taste good. Don’t make sour wine, Papa.” Sage advice from a six-year old. In this vintage, patience and trusting your judgment were requirements for success.
Speaking of children, as I write this, Karen is in Vietnam with our newly-adopted daughter, Evy (rhymes with Chevy). She has a supportive entourage with her that includes her sister Susi, my son Carson, and friends Carolyn Dietz, Katie Evers and Karen Brock. Our version of it takes a village. Josie, Cody and I are very anxious to greet them all when they arrive back in Portland tonight, and Evy will be making several “appearances” over the Thanksgiving weekend.
Our annual Thanksgiving Open House will take place on Friday and Saturday, November 23rd and 24th, and hours will be 10am-4pm both days. We look forward to seeing you, and sharing the exciting results of the 2007 vintage.
Best,
Ken
Thanks to our 2007 Harvest Volunteers!
Rita Anderson – Scott and Janice Ankenbrand – Stacey Baker – Susan Barksdale – Julia Baumann – Susan Baumann – David Boal – Cody Boal – Steve Caldwell – Nancy Campion – Ashley Campion – Jack & Kathleen Carter – Roger Collins – Eric Ewtow – Peg & Jerry Fenton – John Forsen – Jeff Gros – Dale Hall – Robert Harriet – Susan Hebert – Gabe Hill – Diane Hunt – Gwen Jernstedt – Sky Kauer – Jack & Lorrie Lewis – Lila Martin – Carol & Don McCrone – John McCrone – Mac McLaren – John & Angela Merritt – Buzz & Kelly Nielson – Leslie Sarver – Jack & Katie Schwab – Richard Simonson – Bob Stecker – Todd Steele – Father “T” Trewhella – Rob & Pam Varuska – Tasha Winkler – Ron Wolf – Carson Wright – John Zaccone
November 13, 2006
The regular attendance of people at meetings is never an assurance of progress. Witness the recent legislative impasses or, more locally, the Dundee Bypass. Too often, organizations lose their way by not rotating in new members who supply new ideas and energy. Without that influx of creativity, the membership eventually becomes polarized and entrenched.
I can say, however, that I have been part of four organizations over the years that have had a profound impact on our community. Those organizations would be: Carlton’s Visioning Committee, Carlton’s Walk in the Park, Salud and the Yamhill-Carlton American Viticultural Area.
The Carlton Visioning Committee came to be through a state grant that provided a facilitator to help our small community develop a 20-year plan and the road map to get there. If you have driven through Carlton lately, you surely have noticed the dramatic landscape changes that are taking place, particularly the fabulous renovation of the downtown core. We are fortunate that the town is still untainted by the presence of small franchises. Instead, the rich agricultural heritage is still front and center, complete with grain elevators, silos and the rail depot.
Carlton’s Walk in the Park began seven years ago when Sarah Crumly, an owner in the local quilt shop, asked me to help develop an outdoor wine / quilt show. Her hope was to attract people to Carlton who would, of course, fall in love with this original agricultural community. Once exposed, people would surely come back again and again to enjoy the area and support the local businesses. Though Sarah needed to move on, the see she planted has become an event far greater than she anticipated. Walk in the Park is now in its fourth year, and it is without doubt, the finest assemblage of artists, local restaurants, local wineries, music and vintage vehicles in the Willamette Valley. As a non-profit group, Walk in the Park, is able to support the charities and service organizations of the two small communities of Carlton and Yamhill to the tune of $35,000 annually. For a total population of 2,500, this is an amount that has substantial impact. Almost 10% of the population volunteers to pull off this first-class event that is attended by 5,000 people. Without the participation of the volunteers, this event could not happen. Walk in the Park is a perfect example of the tremendous power of an involved community.
Salud, now in its fifteenth year, is a partnership between the Oregon wine industry and Tuality Hospital in Hillsboro. Many of the seasonal workers who help the wine grape industry with harvest, pruning and thinning are only with us for short periods of time, and they are hired through labor contractors. Once finished with a specific practice for us, they move on to another commodity, whether it be strawberries, cherries or Christmas trees. Their short-term employment prevents our insuring them and the same applies to the other commodities. Salud’s mission is to fill this void of medical care. Each year, over the second weekend of November, 42 of the top Pinot noir producers in Oregon auction just five cases of wine from the best barrel in their winery. This wine is available nowhere else. It was my honor to serve as a chair of the mission for the last three years, and though I no longer serve as a char, I am still on the steering committee and no less committed to the cause. Almost three thousand individuals now receive care through the auspices of Salud. We owe a debt of gratitude to doctors, NW medical teams and the independent physicians and dentists who volunteer their services. When combines with the outstanding preventative care program of lead nurse, Leda Garside, the mission has had a profound impact on the health of the seasonal worker community and vastly reduced the critical care visits to emergency rooms that were so common in the past.
The group of folks that make up our vineyard and winery community are probably as diverse a group as one could find. There are those who barely scratch out a living each year and those that come to the industry with the ability to lose millions and not feel it. We have Microsoft programmers and aging hippies. Despite the vastly separate roads that people have traveled to join our industry, they have always shown a willingness to give their effort and dollars to put Oregon first and their own interests second.
The approval of our six new American Viticultural Areas is testament to this team attitude. It would have been easy to political postures to have torpedoed this process. It would have been expected that drawing lines in the sand would have led to enmity. Instead, the industry coalesced and did what no state has done before – creating, en masse, six new AVA’s that define in detail the growing areas of the Willamette Valley.
The debate began in 1995 and ended at that time with overriding concerns of lack of knowledge as to the traits of each Viticultural area and a concern that Oregon had been floating as one boat and that demarcating the region could be divisive. The effort was renewed in 2000 with the passing of a few years, the explosion of vineyard-designate wines had helped both consumers and the industry develop a cleaner picture of specific regional traits. There was also a sense that the area was primed to explode with development and that the time was right, with fewer players involved, to move to agreement on where the liens would be drawn. Given the phenomenal increase in investment that occurred recently, this was prophetic.
The upshot is that the six new AVA’s were agreed upon with few disagreements and sent on to the Federal Tax and Trade Bureau for approval. What t is the value of these new AVA’s? For established wineries, probably not much. The value really resides in the ability of new producers to provide insight to the expected aromas, flavors and textures of the wines they produce. As an example, if a bottling comes from the Yamhill-Carlton AVA, a consumer can expect to see similar qualities in the wine that they have purchased with Shea, WillaKenzie Estate, Renaissance or Savoya. This gives great insight as to what one would expect when you open that bottle.
All of the above attest to the value of community involvement. Great things happen when people come together, commit to a goal, stay focused when issues surface and stay the course until the goal is reached. The wine community has evolved from simply throwing dollars at causes to being personally involved with improving the plight of all who live here. The wagon train families are beginning to trust our motives and they should.
2006 was an amazing vintage. Following a less than perfect Spring and early Summer, we had 2 ½ months of drought and high temperatures. The effect of Global Warming, who knows? What we do know is that these are wines that will deliver lots of pleasure and isn’t that the simple purpose of wine?
We hope to see each and every one of you over the Thanksgiving weekend. Our hours are 10am-4pm on Friday and Saturday.
Our best to you and your families this Holiday season!
11.02.05
Dear friends:
It just occurred to me today that 2005 marks our 20th Oregon vintage. How lucky are we to have had the opportunity to ply the trade we love in the place we love for two decades. The longevity and modicum of success we have enjoyed are in large part due to the many long-term relationships we have cultured. We have been buying fruit from Dick and Nancy Daniel of Canary Hill and Dan and Helen Dusschee of Freedom Hill since 1987. Scary, I don’t feel old enough to have been buying fruit in 1987. We have been purchasing Pinot noir from Jack and Kathleen Carter since 1990, Jim Stonebridge and Kathleen Boeve of Guadalupe since 1992, Dick and Deirdre Shea since 1993 and Don and Carole McCrone since 1995.
Each of these couples have been great partners through the years and they all share a common trait, the desire to produce the best Pinot noir on the planet. They also stood by us, in a big way, when an ownership dispute threatened the future of our business in 1993. Many of you who have followed us through the years will recall that we reimbursed everyone for their futures as we waited for a resolution of the issues. During that difficult period, each of these couples showed support to us that came with financial risk and for that I am forever indebted to them. Ours was a relationship they each chose to protect.
Long-term relationships also define our company’s staff. It was me, myself and I for five years until Dale West joined me in 1991. He left the Trout House of Sunriver to immerse himself in his true love, wine. Alberto Alcazar, cellar manager and donut king of McMinnville, and Mark Gould, who manages Abbott Claim, Canary Hill, Carter, McCrone and Savoya Vineyards, began at the same time in February of 1998. Seth Miller, Mark’s assistant in the vineyard and a lifelong friend of my sons Cody and Carson, began working for us during summers as a 14-year old. He joined the company full time after graduating from Pacific University in 2001.
We have “friends” of our business with which we also share long-term relationships. Peg and Jerry Fenton have been supporters and friends since we first met in 1987. Father Trewhella (Father “T”), visited our winery for the first time that same year, though in search of water for his thirsty garden, and not for wine. Peg, Jerry and Father “T” have for years anchored our sorting line during harvest and they deserve much credit for the pure expression of the fruit making its way to your glass. Dave Grooters, who makes a mean Philly Cheese Steak sandwich, sold his software company and came out to the gorgeous Willamette Valley to shoot pool with his buddy Nick Peirano and volunteer his time to help farm Canary Hill Vineyard and be a forklift jockey through harvest. Dave now has his own vineyard and winery, but still takes time to help whenever we need him. Of course, all of this would be moot if not for the continued support of you, our faithful customer. So, it is with you, all of the folks mentioned above, and so many I have not mentioned that we have meaningful long-term relationships. They are the foundation of our success.
2005 has the potential, for us, to be the best vintage since 1990. As I think back through the season, it doesn’t seem possible that the wines should be this expressive, dark and rich. Our cool spring gave us a late start and we never really did get a dramatic heat spell. Wet weather systems that came off and on in September and October would have normally have posed a risk of splitting or rot for the thin skinned Pinot noir grape. Nothing of the sort happened. If anything the vines seemed to pick up the pace of maturity once the parched root systems got a drink, and some of our best wine is from the last vineyards we harvested. It was also a season that allowed a lot of “hang time” for the fruit. My friend Steve Doerner of Cristom, who I have known since 1978, has always preferred cooler Falls to the scorchers because he feels there is much better flavor development. I think he’s right and this vintage would certainly support the theory. What isn’t theory, but fact, is that cool night time temperatures help to “fix” or stabilize color. Every single lot of Pinot noir in our house is incredibly dark with a beautiful garnet robe at the glass edge.
The annual Ken Wright Cellars Thanksgiving Open House will take place Friday and Saturday, the 25th and 26th of November from 10am to 4pm each day. We hope you can attend so that you can personally sample some of the new wines from this fabulous vintage, and also visit The Depot across the street to sample selected Tyrus Evan wines. Many of the wonderful people mentioned here will be at the event to meet with you, and share their excitement for the 2005 vintage. All of us at KWC look forward to the Open House as an opportunity to answer questions face-to-face and personally thank you.
Best,
Ken
Ken Wright Cellars / Notes on the 2004 vintage
The crop level of the 2004 vintage was the lowest we have experienced in the 20 years we have been winemaking in Oregon. All told we averaged .82 tons per acre. The low crop was caused by less than perfect weather during the June flowering which dramatically reduced fertility. Since our costs of farming remained steady, and prices did not increase, 2004 will result in a financial loss for the winery.
On the positive side this loss of crop greatly decreased the work we were asking of the vines and set the stage for a very early harvest. We began on the 9th of September, the earliest on record save 1992. In 1992 we harvested Beaux Freres Vineyard (they had not finished construction of the winery yet) on the 31st of August.
The vintage was far milder than the blistering 2003. As a result, acidity is a bit higher and promises to give this vintage a long life if properly cellared. The wines are elegant (no, this is not a code word for weak) and delineated. The balance of the vintage will allow the wines to marry well with everything from salmon to roast pork loin. They are wines that will continue to develop and improve for many years to come.
Vineyards of the Yamhill-Carlton District
All of these sites have marine sediments (siltstone and sandstone) as the mother rock. Were you to dig a 10 foot deep trench the walls would look like beach sand. They are all lower in acidity than the volcanic areas when they achieve ripeness and as a result are a bit more forward. The marine sediments produce Pinot noir that has floral, spice and earth elements. Common descriptions include semi sweet chocolate, anise, cedar, tobacco, lavender, violets, black cherry, black raspberry and plum. There is a rustic quality to the wines from these sites that marries particularly well with winter dishes such as roast pork loin or game birds.
Abbott Claim
Named after John F. Abbott who held the original donation land claim. A donation land claim was the way land was acquired before the Homestead Act. An individual could claim half of a square mile or 320 acres. A married couple could claim a full square mile or 640 acres. At that time in Oregon’s history there were quite a few marriages of convenience.
We purchased the property in 1999 and planted it in 2000 to Pinot noir clones 777, 115 and Pommard. It lies on a ridge just south of Guadalupe. Unlike Guadalupe, which is an undulating hillside with peaks and swales, Abbott Claim is a broad even face with very consistent soil depth of 30 inches to mother rock.
Guadalupe
Like Freedom Hill, Guadalupe is transitioning through a bout with phylloxera. The new blocks of clones Wadenswil and 115 are now on line though production is meager. This is a precocious vineyard and has historically been the first to ripen of all the sites we work with. Though this vineyard was included in the Dundee Hills AVA it properly belongs in the Yamhill-Carlton District as it is the last marine sediment based property before the basalt soils of the Dundee Hills begin.
We began working with Guadalupe in 1992 when vineyard manager Joel Myers showed up at the winery during harvest with two unclaimed bins of fruit that he said were so ripe they were “nuclear”. He was right, the two barrels of Guadalupe from that year were our favorites in the cellar.
McCrone
Don & Carole McCrone split time between Oregon and New Zealand pursuing the endless summer. They have properties in both countries which are almost identical. Each has a 7.5 acre vineyard with a lease to a winery that manages the property as well. In New Zealand it is Ata Rangi that manages their vineyard and utilizes all of the fruit. Ken Wright Cellars manages and utilizes all of the production of McCrone Vineyard.
McCrone is densely spaced at over 2000 vines per acre. Plantings began in 1991 and continued until 2000. The majority of the site is planted to the 777 clone with smaller amounts of 115 and 667. McCrone tends to be a bit firmer than its kindred in the AVA due to a western exposure which promotes thickening of the skins from hot late afternoon sun. There is an appealing briary component in the aromatics and flavor which is unique to the site.
Savoya
This is the first site that we purchased and developed from scratch and home for Karen and I. Just over the ridge from McCrone it has a southeast facing and lies at an average elevation of 400 feet. Savoya is just under 18 acres of planted vineyard and is comprised of the clones 777, 667, 115, Pommard and Wadenswil. Though a young vineyard Savoya has shown great promise from the first harvest in 2002. Dark fruits, cola, richness and delineation have been consistent vintage to vintage.
Shea
As with Canary Hill and Carter in 1990, Freedom Hill and Guadalupe in 1992, we were the first to produce a vineyard designated bottling of Shea in 1994. Of all the marine sediment based sites we work with Shea has a bit more red fruit in the mix and is slightly lighter and more graceful on the palate. Shea is a larger vineyard for our area, 125 acres, spread over two hillsides with our 3 blocks all located on the east hill, which we favor. Clonal make-up is 777 and Pommard which were replanted after phylloxera took its toll on the original plantings.
Vineyards of the Eola Hills
The Eola Hills are underlain with basalt at an average depth of 24 to 30 inches. The wine of this region tends to show darker fruits than the Dundee Hills and has more structure as well. As with all other volcanic areas of the Willamette Valley the aromatic and flavor focus is all about fruit. Spice, earth or floral elements take a back seat. Common descriptors would be blueberry, black cherry, cassis and cola. Seared salmon or venison are excellent matches.
Canary Hill
We began sourcing fruit from Canary Hill in 1987. Planted in 1983 Canary Hill is an east facing site largely planted to the Pommard clone. Half of the vineyard is still own rooted vines and we are knocking on wood as phylloxera has yet to make its presence known here. Other clones include 777, 114 and 115. Canary is very forward and accessible at an early age. Aromatically, black cherry is the focus. There is sweetness on the palate that would suggest there is residual sugar though of course there is none. Parts of the site tend to be a bit more vigorous and in these locations we utilize the Scott Henry trellising system which allows twice the number of buds to be left in the same space as a vertically shoot positioned vineyard. The extra growing points let the vine spend its energy in a moderated and controlled manner. We lease and directly manage Canary Hill.
Carter
Like Canary Hill, Carter was planted in 1983. The vineyard is only ¾ of a mile from Canary Hill as the crow flies. Carter is lower in elevation and faces slightly west. Though the wine is generally fruit focused, Carter has a mineral quality as well and a bit more tannin than Canary Hill. Carter Vineyard wine has the ability to age very well. Recent tastings of the 1990 bottling show it to be healthy and delicious. Clonal make-up for Carter is Wadenswil, 777, 667, Pommard and 115. The original plantings are still intact and unaffected by phylloxera. We directly manage Carter Vineyard and have acreage contracts for more than half of the site.
Elton
Elton Vineyard was established in 1983 as well. Our small two acre section is all Pommard clone on its own roots and is split between 1983 and 1984 plantings. Elton is located well north of Canary and Carter and has a slightly different profile. The aromas are often reminiscent of Smith Brothers cough drops (candied cherries) and there is more acidity than either Canary or Carter. This is an east facing vineyard at 400 feet of elevation.
Dundee Hills
The soils of the Dundee Hills tend to be rather deep, often ten feet or more. There is also more clay in the mix which increases the water holding capacity of the soil. The higher water holding capacity helps to sustain the vines later in the year when other regions are drying out. The mother rock is basalt which arrived 20 million years ago as the tailings of a massive flood of lava from an insanely active chain of volcanos in Eastern Oregon. David and Diana Lett helped establish the modern era of winegrowing in the Willamette Valley when they planted their vineyard in these hills in the mid-60’s. The wine of the region is generally lighter in body than other growing regions but very pretty, emollient and complex. Red fruits such as strawberry, raspberry and cherry are common descriptors.
Nysa
Planted in 1990 Nysa neighbors Domaine Drouhin. The vineyard is tightly spaced at 6 feet by 3 feet which is well over 2,000 vines per acre. Own-rooted Pommard clone accounts for two thirds of the site and one third is own-rooted Wadenswil. Nysa has a southeast inclination and lies at 425 feet of elevation. This is an excellent representation of Dundee Hills fruit in its elegant high-toned red and blue fruits and textural complexity.
Coastal Range
Meredith Mitchell and Freedom Hill both lie in the coast range and share some structural similarities but they are planted on very different soils. Freedom Hill is sedimentary whereas Meredith Mitchell is volcanic. Meredith Mitchell does lie within the newly formed McMinnville AVA while Freedom Hill is an outlier without an overriding AVA designation.
Freedom Hill
We have worked with Freedom Hill since 1987. Planted in Oregon’s coastal hills west of Salem, Freedom Hill was established in 1981. This is an east facing vineyard planted on marine sediments. Originally developed with a hanging trellis (which tends to promote higher tannin levels from fruit exposure) the vineyard is now in transition to a vertically shoot positioned system which will provide dappled light to the clusters. The transition was made possible as new blocks are planted to replace phylloxerated vines. Freedom Hill has historically been a little firmer than most of our sites and therefore very age worthy.
Meredith Mitchell
As the coast line of Oregon is pulled north and south occasional rifts form in the mother rock. When this occurs soft magma rises from far below to create a vertical column of basalt. This is a physical feature known as a dike. Meredith Mitchell is planted on a dike and since it was a fairly recent occurrence, geologically speaking, there has been little time for soil development. In most of the vineyard the soil is not much more than a foot in depth before you hit the volcanic mother rock. This limited rooting depth keeps the vines from being the least bit vigorous and in fact presented problems with vines shutting down before fruit was ripe before irrigation was installed on our contracted acreage. Meredith Mitchell, like Freedom Hill, is higher in tannin than most of our sites. It also has more acidity than most so the there is great structure for aging. The aromas are very focused with black cherry and black raspberry being common descriptions.
Dear friends, 10.27.03
What wild and strange weather we have had this year!
This past spring was especially wet and cool. At the end of May we assessed how much heat we had accumulated and discovered it was next to none. Was this year to be a repeat of 1984 when the ripest fruit came in at 20 percent sugar? My first vintage in Oregon was 1986 so I was lucky to have missed that unlucky year.
The first week of June changed everything. We had four straight days in the 90’s and all of the pent up energy the vines possessed was let loose. Our shoot and vegetation developed at an all out pace. It was everything we could do to keep up with the growth by the lifting of catch wires and hand positioning of the shoots.
The torrid weather continued unabated through the heart of our growing season, enough so, that our harvest started earlier than any other in our experience, save 1992 (August 31st). This incredible turnaround spurred my interest in how the year compared with historical weather data. What I found surprised me.
Since 1928 the year with the highest average maximum temperature is 1936 at 68.8°. 2003 is currently on pace to have the second highest average at 68.4°. If you look at the core months of June, July, August and September, 2003 has the highest average maximum temperature other than one year, 1967.
As dismal as the end of May appeared, we made up that ground and more. A vintage saved by the Bell “Curve”.
These record levels of heat produced sugar levels that soared ahead of flavor. This is a common issue for Pinot noir in the warmer climes of California but unusual for our area. The first week of September was screamingly hot, four days registered in the mid-90’s. We had five vineyards at this early point which were already testing over 25 percent sugar. The flavors however lacked depth and richness. Our dilemma was that if we waited for the development of flavor it might not come until the sugar was at a ridiculously high level that would result in an over the top wine that lacked finesse or balance.
This problem was solved by Mother Nature once again when a cooling trend arrived on the 6th of September and included .75 inches of rain on the 8th and 9th. It was perfectly timed. We received enough rain to slow the vines down but not enough to cause any disease issues. Harvest began on the 15th with young vines at Savoya.
The resulting wines are heady, deeply perfumed and dark as a moonless night. They have high alcohol, yes, but they also have the richness, concentration and extract to create balance.
On to closures. Nothing vexes our industry more than cork affectation. A commonly held opinion within the industry is that 5% of all wine is ruined by cork, or 1 in 20 bottles. This level of taint would be unacceptable in any other food industry. If one of every 20 cans of Campbells Chicken soup was inedible they would not be in business long.
What keeps the cork in existence is its historical ties with the beverage, the fact that it, like wine is a natural substance and the ritual we enjoy of opening a bottle among friends with a lovingly prepared meal. For all of those reasons we continued to use cork with the understanding that there would be a percentage of returned bottles.
Our own testing of corks from major suppliers in neutral “bag in the box” white wine showed a much higher rate of affection. While 5% of the corks did show some outright “corkiness” we found that another 5% to 15% (!) were changed by the cork though not in a way that would be described as corkiness. Many of the corks simply dulled the aromatics and flavors which would leave a consumer wondering what all the fuss about the wine was without realizing the cork was to blame.
In the end, we are not okay with the negative influence of cork and believe our customers deserve a better experience.
When searching for an alternative closure we were disappointed with the “plasticky” appearance of synthetic closures and the “crack” of a screw-cap bottle being opened felt more like you had let the air out of the celebration balloon instead of inflating it.
Then Annie Scott, who along with Jane Davis, runs our office, brought in a synthetic closure from a Chilean wine that we had not seen before. It looked and felt much more like cork than any other synthetic closure we had seen. It pulled from the bottle like a perfect cork every time. I called the company, Nomacorc ( www.nomacorc.com ) and spoke with the developers at length about the material and its performance. I was impressed. As a result, all of our 2002 wine was bottled with this closure. As we open bottles of the 2002 vintage we have yet to find a wine that isn’t true to its nature and fully expressive.
There is a certain amount of risk with this new closure. What is poured in the glass is what we made, no excuses.
Best, Ken
October 18, 2002
Dear Friends,
Those of you who reside in the Willamette Valley can attest that we are enjoying some of the finest fall weather we have ever seen. Crisp mornings followed by gorgeous warm afternoons and evenings have been the norm for days on end. 2002 marks my 25th vintage as a winemaker and in all of those years I can’t remember more pleasant harvest conditions than what we are experiencing now.
Mark Gould (vineyard manager) and Seth Miller (assistant vineyard manager) have been delivering fruit this harvest of remarkable quality and with grins from ear to ear. When you consider that their days begin at 5:30 am that tells you how proud they are of arriving with clean, intensely flavored grapes that speak volumes of the work they have done throughout the entire year. Both of these young men (okay, Mark only looks young) understand that despite all of their efforts Mother Nature can wreak havoc with inclement weather at the end of the season. This year, no wreak, no havoc, only smiles.
We have been blessed this year with a great deal of wonderful, independent press. I would like to mention two that are meaningful to me. Our local northwest glossy, The Northwest Palate, does a survey of readers each year which includes the readers’ favorite Oregon winery. To our surprise (we consider ourselves too small to have impact on the voting) we were selected. Knowing that our local clientele felt strongly enough to make time to vote for us means a great deal to me. Robert Parker’s new book, his 6th Wine Buyers Guide, lists us as the only outstanding Oregon winery, his highest accolade for any wine region (Pierre Rovani, his more than able assistant, reviews our region). As all of you who read his reports must know, he exempts Beaux Freres from his review due to an invested interest. If I were to give Michael Etzel’s (winemaker and vineyard manager for Beaux Freres) wine a rating it would certainly be outstanding as well.
When I think of these two recognitions, one local, one international, it makes me pause to consider the road we have traveled. We started small and cash-strapped. Those of you who were aware of us in the beginning remember that our first wine (Panther Creek 1985 Bordeaux Blend) was anything but Pinot noir and totaled 250 cases. I suspect that many of the local industry people thought we were a bit off track. The reality was that while we were still in California, we had the very good fortune to take all of the terrific Bordeaux varietal fruit from the Martin Ray Estate on Mount Eden. We seized the opportunity and a year later arrived in Oregon with 10 barrels. It was a stupidly good wine. Nick Peirano, of the famed Nick’s restaurant in McMinnville, the guy that supported Oregon wine when it had no support, lost his Pinot noir bearings one day and also agreed that it was a stupidly good wine. He actually offered to create a special dinner at the restaurant based on the one wine I had to offer. It was a fun evening. The house was sold out and Nick found a way to make each course evoke different characteristics in the wine. This was the beginning of a great deal of support that has been offered to us over the years from so many people.
We have traveled a bit further down the road as of 2002 and continue to find that our successes are greatly influenced by people who happily volunteer their time to us when we need help most. People like Father C.K. Trewhella. Father “T” has been volunteering at harvest for nine years now. He has become our last line of defense on our sorting line. Leaves, second crop, mold or stinkbugs do not pass Father T. He does this for us because he enjoys the camaraderie and he knows he is making a real difference in the ultimate quality of the wine.
The list of people like Nick and Father T who have helped us to survive and be better at our craft is a long one. It is exactly this kind of support that elevates the efforts of everyone associated with our winery and results in the kind of recognition that we have received this year and in all the years prior.
Our Thanksgiving Weekend Open House will take place on Friday and Saturday, the 29th and 30th of November from 10 am to 4 pm each day. We hope you can attend so that you can personally sample the new wines from this stunning vintage, including Savoya, our first directly owned and developed vineyard. At the event you will have a chance to visit with many of the people that have had a profound impact on our business and any measure of success that we have had.
Best,
Ken
Notes regarding 2001 Vintage from Ken Wright
The 2001 vintage has produced complex, fragrant and textural wines. Our aggressive cutting-edge techniques in the vineyard allowed all of our sites to fully ripen prior to any fall rains. The harvest of Oregon vineyards prior to eventual fall rain is the most significant test we face each year.
My first vintage in Oregon was 1986 and at that time 3 tons per acre was considered to be a low crop level. Even at this relatively low level there were too many years that early rainfall diluted what might otherwise have been stellar vintages. The result was that the Oregon wine industry was painted with the criticism of inconsistency. Those in the industry who wished to produce wine of intensity and concentration felt the criticism was valid.
Over the last seven years producers who have the will and financial wherewithal are employing new techniques to ensure full ripening. These techniques are based on two fronts. The first is crop removal and the second is an effort to make our leaf surface the most efficient it can be in capturing light and transforming that light to sugar.
Among high quality producers the old standard of three tons per acre has dropped to 1.75 to 2.25 tons per acre. As you might imagine, cutting the production of an acre of ground in half doubles our fruit cost and reduces our potential revenue by half. It only makes economic sense if quality is increased and you achieve greater consistency from year to year by harvesting earlier and avoiding the fall rain pattern we know as “the pineapple express”. We believe these reduced crop levels are making a significant difference. When comparing years of similar heat accumulation we are now harvesting 5 to 7 days earlier.
Our focus in the vineyard is to be as efficient as possible in capturing light. This starts with the creation of a well-spaced frame of shoot growth. As the new shoots grow in the spring, we remove any which are closer than a normal hand width to another shoot. This spacing ensures that there are fewer shaded leaves which are largely unproductive and a drain on the plant. As we go through the season, each vine will be addressed several times to separate, vertically position and pin the shoots in place.
The 2001 vintage is perhaps our best example yet of the value of crop reduction and canopy management. Vineyards which otherwise would have been late enough in development to have been subject to rainfall had advanced fruit maturity that allowed us to harvest at optimum ripeness prior to diluting weather systems.
Best, Ken
Abbott Claim
Yamhill-Carlton AVA
Soil: Sedimentary – Wellsdale
400-475 elevation S-SE inclination
Floral & Spice Focused
Blanketed in a quilt of savory complexity, bright red fruits spar with earthen umami notes. Velvety tannins round the finish.
Bonnie Jean
Yamhill-Carlton AVA
Soil: Sedimentary – Wellsdale
400-450 elevation S-SE inclination
Floral & Spice Focused
Raspberry, red currant and bramble are met with a deeper note of mocha. Wisps of cherry blossom and vanilla round the palate.
Hirschy
Yamhill-Carlton AVA
Soil: Sedimentary – Windy Gap & Dupee
350-375 elevation SE-SW inclination
Floral & Spice Focused
Dark, brooding black fruits coalesce with baking spices, umami undertones and violets.
Bryce
Ribbon Ridge AVA
Soil: Sedimentary – Willakenzie
300 elevation S-SE inclination
Floral & Spice Focused
Crisp linen and alpine flowers dance with dried blueberry, huckleberry and sandalwood. A lively, balanced acidity elongates the finish.
Canary Hill
Eola-Amity AVA
Soil: Volcanic Rock – Jory & Nekia
450-550 elevation East inclination
Fruit Focused
Juicy fruits of boysenberry and black cherry dance with tropical hints of guava and orange peel for a lively, luscious mouthfeel and a silken finish.
Carter
Eola-Amity AVA
Soil: Volcanic Rock – Nekia
325 elevation West inclination
Fruit Focused
Dense, darker fruit of blackberry and loganberry mingle with turned earth, hints of sassafras and violets. Lush on the palate with beautifully balanced structure.
Freedom Hill
Willamette Valley AVA
Soil: Sedimentary – Bellpine
450 elevation SE inclination
Floral & Spice Focused
Warming spices of cassia bark and all-spice mingle with juicy red fruits. Hints of graham cracker and forest floor emerge in a luscious finish.
Latchkey
Dundee Hills AVA
Soil: Volcanic Rock – Jory
500 elevation E-SE inclination
Fruit Focused
Layered aromas of blueberry, apricot and strawberry compote meld with cinnamon stick and hints of nutmeg on the nose. Darker fruits emerge on the palate, met by a beautifully bright and vibrant finish.
Guadalupe
Willamette Valley AVA
Soil: Sedimentary – Willakenzie
350 elevation S inclination
Floral & Spice Focused
Black raspberry, dried cherry and blueberry compote are enveloped in a perfume of sandalwood, anise flower and geranium. Luscious and lingering on the palate.
McCrone
Yamhill-Carlton AVA
Soil: Sedimentary – Willakenzie
400 elevation S-SW inclination
Floral & Spice Focused
Red plum and Bing cherry are steeped in a sun tea with hints of hibiscus. A brooding, darkened cherry evolves on the palate into a voluptuous cola finish.
Savoya
Yamhill-Carlton AVA
Soil: Sedimentary – Willakenzie
350-450 elevation SE inclination
Floral & Spice Focused
Dried leaves and saddle leather deepen the aroma of black currant, cranberry and dried cherry. Rich on the palate with hints of cola.
Shea
Yamhill-Carlton AVA
Soil: Sedimentary – Willakenzie
450-600 elevation S inclination
Floral & Spice Focused
Brambly fruits of marionberry and raspberry play with heady floral notes of lily and hyacinth. Brightness is balanced by ribbons of caramel, earth and maple.
Tanager
Yamhill-Carlton AVA
Soil: Sedimentary – Willakenzie
350-400 elevation W inclination
Floral & Spice Focused
Black plum and marionberry mingle with heady notes of black licorice, and cedarwood. Velvety tannins linger gracefully on the palate.
Abbott Claim
Yamhill-Carlton AVA
Soil: Ancient Marine Sediments
400-475 elevation S-SE inclination
Floral & Spice Focused
Tart cherry, and sugar plum and pomegranate are met with cracked pepper and touches of toasted graham. A hint of sweet orange pith lingers on the finish.
Bonnie Jean
Yamhill-Carlton AVA
Soil: Sedimentary – Wellsdale
400-450 elevation S-SE inclination
Floral & Spice Focused
Fresh, juicy fruits of wild cherry, red plum and raspberry are met with hints of cola, wet stone and dried herbs.
Hirschy
Yamhill-Carlton AVA
Soil: Sedimentary – Windy Gap & Dupee
350-375 elevation SE-SW inclination
Floral & Spice Focused
Mulberry, red plum with high toned hints of passionfruit comingle with rose petals and salted caramel for a luscious and lively wine.
Bryce
Ribbon Ridge AVA
Soil: Sedimentary – Willakenzie
300 elevation S-SE inclination
Floral & Spice Focused
Dense and luscious black raspberry and boysenberry are complimented by sassafras, star anise and cinnamon bark.
Canary Hill
Eola-Amity AVA
Soil: Volcanic Rock – Jory/Nekia
450-550 elevation East inclination
Fruit Focused
Bing cherry and ruby red grapefruit mingle with toasted spice notes of nutmeg and coriander. A velvet finish balances perfectly with bright acidity.
Carter
Eola-Amity AVA
Soil: Volcanic Rock – Nekia
325 elevation West inclination
Fruit Focused
Black plum and blackberry mingle with turned earth, graphite and cedar for a full-bodied, complex wine. High tones of orange zest and raspberry dance with balanced acidity.
Freedom Hill
Willamette Valley AVA
Soil: Sedimentary – Bellpine
450 elevation SE inclination
Floral & Spice Focused
Exploding out of the glass with raspberry, huckleberry, and dark chocolate. Earthy notes of potting soil ground and round this silky wine.
Latchkey
Dundee Hills AVA
Soil: Volcanic Rock – Jory
500 elevation SW inclination
Fruit Focused
Layered with dried blueberry, huckleberry and cassis find harmony with notes of sassafras and sweet tea.
Guadalupe
Willamette Valley AVA
Soil: Sedimentary – Willakenzie
350 elevation S inclination
Floral & Spice Focused
A lively expression of strawberry, rhubarb and red plum with hints of marjoram and chipotle spice. Nimble and bright.
McCrone
Yamhill-Carlton AVA
Soil: Sedimentary – Willakenzie
400 elevation S-SW inclination
Floral & Spice Focused
Black cherry, black currant and star anise blend with lily and hyacinth for a complex and heady, firmly structured wine.
Savoya
Yamhill-Carlton AVA
Soil: Sedimentary – Willakenzie
350-450 elevation SE inclination
Floral & Spice Focused
Dried cherry and black plum skin mingle with black tea and hints of hibiscus, sweet clover and rosehip.
Shea
Yamhill-Carlton AVA
Soil: Sedimentary – Willakenzie
450-600 elevation S inclination
Floral & Spice Focused
Brambley fruits of black raspberry drive the profile with notes of dark chocolate, caramel and fresh turned earth.
Tanager
Yamhill-Carlton AVA
Soil: Sedimentary – Willakenzie
350-400 elevation W inclination
Floral & Spice Focused
Dark fruits of black cherry and black currant dance with earthy notes of shitake mushroom and cola. Brooding spices of all-spice, cinnamon, clove and vanilla round the finish.
Abbott Claim
Yamhill-Carlton AVA
Soil: Ancient Marine Sediments
400-475 elevation S-SE inclination
Floral & Spice Focused
Tart cherry and raspberry with earthy & umami notes. Spiced with notes of cinnamon and anise
Bryce
Ribbon Ridge AVA
Soil: Sedimentary – Willakenzie
300 elevation S-SE inclination
Floral & Spice Focused
Dark brambly fruit with black cherry and cracked pepper & earthy based notes
Canary Hill
Eola-Amity AVA
Soil: Volcanic Rock – Jory/Nekia
450-550 elevation East inclination
Fruit Focused
Light tannins and bright acidity. Red and blue fruit – juicy red plum, pie cherry, and marionberry
Carter
Eola-Amity AVA
Soil: Volcanic Rock – Nekia
325 elevation West inclination
Fruit Focused
Darker blue & black fruits of cassis, blackberry & dried blueberry supported by firm acidity and moderate tannins
Freedom Hill
Coastal Range
Soil: Sedimentary – Bellpine
450 elevation SE inclination
Floral & Spice Focused
Black raspberry, bing cherry & fresh turned earth mingle with delicate floral notes. Bright acidity and minerality combine for a juicy mouthfeel.
Guadalupe
Yamhill-Carlton AVA
Soil: Sedimentary – Willakenzie
350 elevation S inclination
Floral & Spice Focused
Very forward & attractive in its youth with a depth of flavor – raspberry, mulberry combine with morel mushroom for an earthy & luscious mouthfeel.
Latchkey
Dundee Hills AVA
Soil: Volcanic Rock – Jory
500 elevation SW inclination
Fruit Focused
Cherry, huckleberry, cotton candy
Lush texture with bright acidity provides great energy in this wine.
McCrone
Yamhill-Carlton AVA
Soil: Sedimentary – Willakenzie
400 elevation S-SW inclination
Floral & Spice Focused
Tart cherry and huckleberry with generous floral notes of hibiscus & rose, touches of nutmeg & black tea
Savoya
Yamhill-Carlton AVA
Soil: Sedimentary – Willakenzie
350-450 elevation SE inclination
Floral & Spice Focused
Fresh & bright red fruit – red plum and cranberry mingle with notes of cinnamon, tobacco and turned earth.
Shea
Yamhill-Carlton AVA
Soil: Sedimentary – Willakenzie
450-600 elevation S inclination
Floral & Spice Focused
Blue & red fruits of blueberry and raspberry with delicate anise and cola notes. Opulent texture and a luscious mouthfeel.
Tanager
Yamhill-Carlton AVA
Soil: Sedimentary – Willakenzie
350-400 elevation W inclination
Floral & Spice Focused
Red & blue fruits of raspberry, blueberry and cranberry dance with firmer tannin structure.
Bonnie Jean
Yamhill-Carlton AVA
Soil: Sedimentary – Wellsdale
400-450 elevation E-SE inclination
Floral & Spice Focused
Juicy and plush with dried blueberry, black cherry, marionberry and hints of warm spices – nutmeg & cardamom
Abbott Claim
Yamhill-Carlton AVA
Soil: Ancient Marine Sediments
400-475 elevation S-SE inclination
Floral & Spice Focused
Tart cherry and raspberry with earthy & umami notes. Spiced with notes of cinnamon and anise
Bryce
Ribbon Ridge AVA
Soil: Sedimentary – Willakenzie
300 elevation S-SE inclination
Floral & Spice Focused
Dark brambly fruit with black cherry and cracked pepper & earthy based notes
Canary Hill
Eola-Amity AVA
Soil: Volcanic Rock – Jory/Nekia
450-550 elevation East inclination
Fruit Focused
Light tannins and bright acidity. Red and blue fruit – juicy red plum, pie cherry, and marionberry
Carter
Eola-Amity AVA
Soil: Volcanic Rock – Nekia
325 elevation West inclination
Fruit Focused
Darker blue & black fruits of cassis, blackberry & dried blueberry supported by firm acidity and moderate tannins
Freedom Hill
Coastal Range
Soil: Sedimentary – Bellpine
450 elevation SE inclination
Floral & Spice Focused
Black raspberry, bing cherry & fresh turned earth mingle with delicate floral notes. Bright acidity and minerality combine for a juicy mouthfeel.
Guadalupe
Yamhill-Carlton AVA
Soil: Sedimentary – Willakenzie
350 elevation S inclination
Floral & Spice Focused
Very forward & attractive in its youth with a depth of flavor – raspberry, mulberry combine with morel mushroom for an earthy & luscious mouthfeel.
Latchkey
Dundee Hills AVA
Soil: Volcanic Rock – Jory
500 elevation SW inclination
Fruit Focused
Cherry, huckleberry, cotton candy
Lush texture with bright acidity provides great energy in this wine.
McCrone
Yamhill-Carlton AVA
Soil: Sedimentary – Willakenzie
400 elevation S-SW inclination
Floral & Spice Focused
Tart cherry and huckleberry with generous floral notes of hibiscus & rose, touches of nutmeg & black tea
Savoya
Yamhill-Carlton AVA
Soil: Sedimentary – Willakenzie
350-450 elevation SE inclination
Floral & Spice Focused
Fresh & bright red fruit – red plum and cranberry mingle with notes of cinnamon, tobacco and turned earth.
Shea
Yamhill-Carlton AVA
Soil: Sedimentary – Willakenzie
450-600 elevation S inclination
Floral & Spice Focused
Blue & red fruits of blueberry and raspberry with delicate anise and cola notes. Opulent texture and a luscious mouthfeel.
Tanager
Yamhill-Carlton AVA
Soil: Sedimentary – Willakenzie
350-400 elevation W inclination
Floral & Spice Focused
Red & blue fruits of raspberry, blueberry and cranberry dance with firmer tannin structure.
Bonnie Jean
Yamhill-Carlton AVA
Soil: Sedimentary – Wellsdale
400-450 elevation E-SE inclination
Floral & Spice Focused
Juicy and plush with dried blueberry, black cherry, marionberry and hints of warm spices – nutmeg & cardamom
Abbott Claim
Yamhill-Carlton AVA
Soil: Ancient Marine Sediments
400-475 elevation S-SE inclination
Floral & Spice Focused
Tart cherry and raspberry with earthy & umami notes. Spiced with notes of cinnamon and anise
Bryce
Ribbon Ridge AVA
Soil: Sedimentary – Willakenzie
300 elevation S-SE inclination
Floral & Spice Focused
Dark brambly fruit with black cherry and cracked pepper & earthy based notes
Canary Hill
Eola-Amity AVA
Soil: Volcanic Rock – Jory/Nekia
450-550 elevation East inclination
Fruit Focused
Light tannins and bright acidity. Red and blue fruit – juicy red plum, pie cherry, and marionberry
Carter
Eola-Amity AVA
Soil: Volcanic Rock – Nekia
325 elevation West inclination
Fruit Focused
Darker blue & black fruits of cassis, blackberry & dried blueberry supported by firm acidity and moderate tannins
Freedom Hill
Coastal Range
Soil: Sedimentary – Bellpine
450 elevation SE inclination
Floral & Spice Focused
Black raspberry, bing cherry & fresh turned earth mingle with delicate floral notes. Bright acidity and minerality combine for a juicy mouthfeel.
Guadalupe
Yamhill-Carlton AVA
Soil: Sedimentary – Willakenzie
350 elevation S inclination
Floral & Spice Focused
Very forward & attractive in its youth with a depth of flavor – raspberry, mulberry combine with morel mushroom for an earthy & luscious mouthfeel.
McCrone
Yamhill-Carlton AVA
Soil: Sedimentary – Willakenzie
400 elevation S-SW inclination
Floral & Spice Focused
Tart cherry and huckleberry with generous floral notes of hibiscus & rose, touches of nutmeg & black tea
Meredith Mitchell
McMinnville AVA
Soil: Volcanic Rock – Yamhill
550 elevation S inclination
Fruit Focused
Dark blue & black fruits, this 100% Pommard clone has great structure and a full mouthfeel.
Savoya
Yamhill-Carlton AVA
Soil: Sedimentary – Willakenzie
350-450 elevation SE inclination
Floral & Spice Focused
Fresh & bright red fruit – red plum and cranberry mingle with notes of cinnamon, tobacco and turned earth.
Shea
Yamhill-Carlton AVA
Soil: Sedimentary – Willakenzie
450-600 elevation S inclination
Floral & Spice Focused
Blue & red fruits of blueberry and raspberry with delicate anise and cola notes. Opulent texture and a luscious mouthfeel.
Tanager
Yamhill-Carlton AVA
Soil: Sedimentary – Willakenzie
350-400 elevation W inclination
Floral & Spice Focused
Red & blue fruits of raspberry, blueberry and cranberry dance with firmer tannin structure.
Bonnie Jean
Yamhill-Carlton AVA
Soil: Wellsdale
400-450 elevation E-SE inclination
Floral & Spice Focused
Juicy and plush with dried blueberry, black cherry, marionberry and hints of warm spices – nutmeg & cardamom
Abbott Claim
Yamhill-Carlton AVA
Soil: Ancient Marine Sediments
400-475 elevation S-SE inclination
Floral & Spice Focused
Tart cherry, pomegranate & grapefruit with notes of cardamom, anise and fresh cut pine
Bonnie Jean
Yamhill-Carlton AVA
Soil: Wellsdale
400-450 elevation S-SE inclination
Floral & Spice Focused
Youthful and forward with fresh berries, dried spice, red currants, cherries and cola
Bryce
Ribbon Ridge AVA
Soil: Sedimentary – Willakenzie
300 elevation S-SE inclination
Floral & Spice Focused
Brambly red fruit, distinctive minerality and warm spices of clove and anise
Canary Hill
Eola-Amity AVA
Soil: Volcanic Rock – Jory/Nekia
450-550 elevation East inclination
Fruit Focused
Modest structure, light tannins and bright acidity. Red and blue fruit – juicy red plum, pie cherry, and marionberry
Carter
Eola-Amity AVA
Soil: Volcanic Rock – Nekia
325 elevation West inclination
Fruit Focused
Moderate tannins and acidity
Blue & black fruit
black cherry, blueberry, blackberry and plum skin
Freedom Hill
Coastal Range
Soil: Sedimentary – Bellpine
450 elevation SE inclination
Floral & Spice Focused
Brighter acidity than most sedimentary sites. Red fruits, lush mouthfeel, juicy strawberry, watermelon with hints of leather & fresh-turned Earth qualities
Guadalupe
Yamhill-Carlton AVA
Soil: Sedimentary – Willakenzie
350 elevation S inclination
Floral & Spice Focused
Very forward & attractive in its youth with a depth of flavor – raspberry, black cherry, mulberry & five-spice
McCrone
Yamhill-Carlton AVA
Soil: Sedimentary – Willakenzie
400 elevation S-SW inclination
Floral & Spice Focused
Highest natural tannins of all our sedimentary sites – briary fruits with raspberry sorbet, candied cherry, fresh-turned Earth & toasted hazelnuts
Meredith Mitchell
McMinnville AVA
Soil: Volcanic Rock – Yamhill
550 elevation S inclination
Fruit Focused
Most natural tannins & acidity of all our sites. Dark profile of blue & black fruit, nervy & powerful with blackberry, cassis and ripe watermelon
Nysa
Dundee Hills AVA
Soil: Volcanic Rock – Jory
650 elevation SE-NE inclination
Fruit Focused
Least structured with less acidity & tannin. Texturally elegant black raspberry, strawberry, and hints of coriander
Savoya
Yamhill-Carlton AVA
Soil: Sedimentary – Willakenzie
350-450 elevation SE inclination
Floral & Spice Focused
Black cherry, cranberry, pomegranate with earthy cola and saddle leather notes
Shea
Yamhill-Carlton AVA
Soil: Sedimentary – Willakenzie
450-600 elevation S inclination
Floral & Spice Focused
Blue fruit, blueberry, black currant with delicate anise and cola notes
Tanager
Yamhill-Carlton AVA
Soil: Sedimentary – Willakenzie
350-400 elevation W inclination
Floral & Spice Focused
Youthful, fresh balanced blue fruits such as cassis and blueberry
Abbott Claim
Yamhill-Carlton AVA
Soil: Ancient Marine Sediments
400-475 elevation S-SE inclination
Floral & Spice Focused
Tart cherry, pomegranate & grapefruit with notes of cardamom, anise and fresh cut pine
Canary Hill
Eola-Amity AVA
Soil: Volcanic Rock – Jory/Nekia
450-550 elevation East inclination
Fruit Focused
Modest structure, light tannins and bright acidity. Red and blue fruit – juicy red plum, pie cherry, and marionberry
Carter
Eola-Amity AVA
Soil: Volcanic Rock – Nekia
325 elevation West inclination
Fruit Focused
Moderate tannins and acidity
Blue & black fruit
black cherry, blueberry, blackberry and plum skin
Freedom Hill
Coastal Range
Soil: Sedimentary – Bellpine
450 elevation SE inclination
Floral & Spice Focused
Brighter acidity than most sedimentary sites. Red fruits, lush mouthfeel, juicy strawberry, watermelon with hints of leather & fresh-turned Earth qualities
Guadalupe
Yamhill-Carlton AVA
Soil: Sedimentary – Willakenzie
350 elevation S inclination
Floral & Spice Focused
Very forward & attractive in its youth with a depth of flavor – raspberry, black cherry, mulberry & five-spice
McCrone
Yamhill-Carlton AVA
Soil: Sedimentary – Willakenzie
400 elevation S-SW inclination
Floral & Spice Focused
Highest natural tannins of all our sedimentary sites – briary fruits with raspberry sorbet, candied cherry, fresh-turned Earth & toasted hazelnuts
Meredith Mitchell
McMinnville AVA
Soil: Volcanic Rock – Yamhill
550 elevation S inclination
Fruit Focused
Most natural tannins & acidity of all our sites. Dark profile of blue & black fruit, nervy & powerful with blackberry, cassis and ripe watermelon
Nysa
Dundee Hills AVA
Soil: Volcanic Rock – Jory
650 elevation SE-NE inclination
Fruit Focused
Least structured with less acidity & tannin. Texturally elegant black raspberry, strawberry, and hints of coriander
Savoya
Yamhill-Carlton AVA
Soil: Sedimentary – Willakenzie
350-450 elevation SE inclination
Floral & Spice Focused
Black cherry, cranberry, pomegranate with earthy cola and saddle leather notes
Shea
Yamhill-Carlton AVA
Soil: Sedimentary – Willakenzie
450-600 elevation S inclination
Floral & Spice Focused
Blue fruit, blueberry, black currant with delicate anise and cola notes
Tanager
Yamhill-Carlton AVA
Soil: Sedimentary – Willakenzie
350-400 elevation W inclination
Floral & Spice Focused
Youthful, fresh balanced blue fruits such as cassis and blueberry
Abbott Claim
Yamhill-Carlton AVA
Soil: Ancient Marine Sediments
400-475 elevation S-SE inclination
Floral & Spice Focused
Darker fruit profile than our other sedimentary sites
Lush in the mouth
(Cassis, Clove, Anise, Plum)
Canary Hill
Eola-Amity AVA
Soil: Volcanic Rock – Jory/Nekia
450-550 elevation East inclination
Fruit Focused
Modest structure, light tannins and bright acidity
Red and Blue fruits
(blueberry, cherry)
Carter
Eola-Amity AVA
Soil: Volcanic Rock – Nekia
325 elevation West inclination
Fruit Focused
Moderate tannins and acidity
Blue fruit
(plum, blueberry, black cherry)
Freedom Hill
Coastal Range
Soil: Sedimentary – Bellpine
450 elevation SE inclination
Floral & Spice Focused
Brighter acidity than most sedimentary sites
Red & Blue fruits
(Cola, Fresh-turned Earth qualities)
Guadalupe
Yamhill-Carlton AVA
Soil: Sedimentary – Willakenzie
350 elevation S inclination
Floral & Spice Focused
Very forward & attractive in its youth
(Chocolate, Cola, Raspberry, Black Cherry)
McCrone
Yamhill-Carlton AVA
Soil: Sedimentary – Willakenzie
400 elevation S-SW inclination
Floral & Spice Focused
Highest natural tannins of all our sedimentary sites
(Briary, Tobacco, Fresh-turned Earth qualities)
Meredith Mitchell
McMinnville AVA
Soil: Volcanic Rock – Yamhill
550 elevation S inclination
Fruit Focused
Most natural tannins & acidity of all our sites
Dark profile of Blue & Black fruit
(black currant/cassis)
Nysa
Dundee Hills AVA
Soil: Volcanic Rock – Jory
650 elevation SE-NE inclination
Fruit Focused
Least structured – less tannin & acidity, textural, elegant
Red fruit
(strawberry, light raspberry, cherry)
Savoya
Yamhill-Carlton AVA
Soil: Sedimentary – Willakenzie
350-450 elevation SE inclination
Floral & Spice Focused
Forward & lush in its youth
(Cola, hint of Tobacco, Black Cherry)
Shea
Yamhill-Carlton AVA
Soil: Sedimentary – Willakenzie
450-600 elevation S inclination
Floral & Spice Focused
Seamless palate weight
Red & Blue fruit
(Anise, Cola, Raspberry, Black Cherry)
